Long Raglan Sleeve Trench Coat

Fabric & Materials

Raincoat fabric 150 cm wide, LINING fabric, FUSIBLE INTERFACING, raglan shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY on fold
• 3. FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
• 4. WELT - 2 QTY
• 5. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 6. COLLAR - 2 QTY
• 7. UNDERLAY - 2 QTY
• 8. BACK SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 9. FRONT SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 10. BELT - 1 QTY
• From LINING:
• 11. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 12. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 13. BACK SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 14. FRONT SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 15. POCKET BAG - 4 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce FRONT FACINGS, back neck FACING, COLLAR and welts. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce FRONT FACINGS, lower COLLAR, pocket welts, and back neck FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. On the FRONT PANELS, create WELT POCKETS: cleanly stitch the welts along the short sides, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the fold close to the edge.
3. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Turn under one long edge of the underlay and topstitch the underlay to the upper pocket bag.
4. Place the pocket welt and upper pocket bag with the FRONT PANEL right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking.
5. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
6. Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste.
7. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, place the lower pocket bag onto the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, topstitch the welt into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards.
8. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching.
9. Trim and stitch the pocket bags. Topstitch the welt along the short sides to the FRONT PANEL.
10. Stitch the raglan seams on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, topstitch at a distance of 1.0 cm.
11. Stitch the upper SLEEVE seams.
12. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seams and the side seams of the coat.
13. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline.
14. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and FRONT FACINGS, attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and FRONT FACINGS, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, and clip curves.
15. Place the upper COLLAR, joined with the FRONT FACINGS, onto the main garment right side in, and stitch the front edges and COLLAR. Turn right side out and press.
16. Fold under the edge of the upper COLLAR and topstitch to the neckline. From the right side of the garment, turn and straighten the front edge and COLLAR, baste.
17. Bottom edge: lay the FRONT FACINGS forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and sew. Turn the FRONT FACINGS to the wrong side.
18. Topstitch the front edges and COLLAR at a distance of 1.0 cm.
19. Sew on shoulder pads.
20. Stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric.
21. Attach the LINING to the lower SLEEVE edges, inner edges of the FRONT FACINGS, and back neck FACING.
22. Hem the LINING.
23. Fold the BELT in half lengthwise, right sides together, and cleanly stitch along the long side and one short side, turn right side out, and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, stitch around the perimeter of the BELT at a distance of 0.5 cm.