Oversized Double-Breasted Coat with Patch Pockets
A women's oversized mid-calf coat with dropped shoulders, a double-breasted front with notched lapels, flapped patch pockets, buttoned tabs on the sleeves and a tie belt. Fully lined, with a back vent.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over suits, dresses and knitwear; the loose cut leaves room for a jacket underneath.
- Belted at the waist or worn open and loose.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Oversized and straight, gathered in at the waist by a separate tie belt.
Length: Mid-calf.
Collar: Two-piece collar with notched lapels; collar and front edges topstitched 1 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Long one-piece sleeves on a dropped shoulder, topstitched close to the armhole seam. Each sleeve has a decorative tab, made of an upper and a lower part, basted into the sleeve hem and fastened with a button.
Closure: Double-breasted; two buttonholes on the right front and one buttonhole on the left front for the inner button.
Pockets: Patch pockets with lined flaps; the flaps are stitched on upside down, turned down and topstitched, edges topstitched 5 mm.
Back: Centre back seam pressed to the left and topstitched, ending in a vent with a cut-on facing; the vent top is topstitched diagonally.
Waist: Tie belt made from one folded piece, topstitched all round 0.5 cm from the edge.
Finishing: Front facings and back neckline facing; interfaced hem allowances; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining of fronts, back and sleeves, cut away and hand-stitched around the vent.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A full lining with a lined back vent, a collar set between the coat and the facings, flapped patch pockets and buttoned sleeve tabs.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight coating or heavy suiting with some body: wool and wool blends, gabardine, cotton twill for a lighter version.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, under collar, pocket flaps, hem allowances)
- Buttons (front, inner button and sleeve tabs)
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (on fold)
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece
- Lower Decorative Tab – 4 pieces
- Upper Decorative Tab – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (on fold)
- Collar (under collar) – 1 piece
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Strips for the hem allowances
If the pattern pieces have a double outline, they include seam allowances; if the outline is single, seam allowances are not included.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the center front facings, under collar, pocket flaps, back neckline facing and hem allowances (fuse the interfacing to the wrong side with a hot iron).
- Place the pocket flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn right side out, press, and topstitch at a distance of 5 mm.
- Press the top hem of the pocket to the inside, turn under the edge, and stitch along the edge.
- Press the outer edges of the patch pocket to the inside, place the pocket on the main garment according to markings, and topstitch.
- Place the patch pocket flap, turned upwards, on the right side of the coat and stitch. Turn the flap downwards, press, and topstitch.
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent, press allowances to the left back, topstitch the left back along the seam.
- Sew the side and shoulder seams.
- Place the decorative tab pieces right sides together, stitch around, leaving the slanted ends open, turn and topstitch.
- Place the tabs on the sleeve and baste between the transverse markings, with the open end of the tab lying on the sleeve edge allowance.
- Sew the sleeve seams. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the under collar into the coat neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings, and stitch the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam allowances open and clip the curves.
- Place the upper collar with the attached facings on the coat, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and collar; turn right side out and press. Hand-stitch the neckline seam allowances of the upper collar to the neckline seam.
- From the right side, roll the front edges and collar into position and baste.
- Lower edge: fold the center front facings forward. Turn the hem allowances to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the front facings to the wrong side. Topstitch the fronts and collar at a distance of 1.0 cm.
- Set in the sleeves. Topstitch the coat close to the sleeve attachment seams. Attach shoulder pads.
- Back vent: press the left edge of the vent to the wrong side, stitch to the hem allowances. On the right vent allowance, press the integrated facing to the wrong side, stitch to the hem allowances. Pin the vent along the matching lines. Hem the bottom. Topstitch the left back diagonally at the top of the vent, catching the vent allowance.
- Stitch the lining pieces. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems, the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Carefully pin the lining in the area of the back vent. Cut the lining along the vent accordingly, remembering the allowances! Turn under the edges of the lining and stitch to the vent edges. Hem the lining.
- Tie belt: Fold the waistband (belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch neatly along the long and one short side, turn right side out and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, topstitch around the perimeter of the belt at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Make 2 buttonholes on the right front and the top buttonhole for the inner button on the left front; make buttonholes in the tabs and fasten them with buttons. Sew on the buttons to match the buttonholes.
