Trousers with Wrap Skirt Overlay
A women's two-part set: full-length straight trousers with a fly zip and a faced top edge, worn under a short wrap-front mini skirt that is tacked to the trousers at the side seams.
When To Wear
- As a day outfit with a fitted top or a short jacket.
- In spring and autumn, with flat shoes or ankle boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight trousers with a short skirt layered over the hips.
Length: Trousers full length; skirt mini length.
Front: Trousers have a zip fly with a separate fly shield; the right front is topstitched along the fly. The skirt front is a centre front panel wrapping over a side front panel, with the wrap edge turned under and topstitched 5–7 mm.
Closure: Trousers close with the fly zip; the skirt fastens with hook-and-loop tape on the front belt.
Back: Trousers with a centre back seam; one-piece back skirt.
Waist: Trousers have no waistband: the top edge is finished with interfaced front and back facings and edgestitched. The skirt has a two-piece interfaced belt across the front only; the top edges of the back skirt and side front skirt are turned under and edgestitched.
Finishing: Trouser hems turned up and stitched close to the edge; skirt hem topstitched 5–7 mm from the edge.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip fly with a fly shield, a faced waistline without a waistband, and a wrap skirt with a partial belt joined to the trousers.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabric with some body for both parts: suiting, crepe, gabardine, cotton or linen blends.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (trouser facings, half the width of the front belt)
- Zip for the trouser fly
- A small piece of hook-and-loop tape
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- Front Half – 2 pieces
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Front Pant Half Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Pant Half Facing – 1 piece
- Back Skirt – 1 piece
- Front Belt – 2 pieces
- Center Front Skirt – 1 piece
- Side Front Skirt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front Pant Half Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Pant Half Facing – 1 piece
- Front Belt – interfacing on half the belt width
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the trouser facings and the front belt (fuse the interfacing to the wrong side with a hot iron).
- Trousers: Stitch the front crotch seam below the zipper opening mark, and the back crotch seam.
- Fly zipper with button catch: Press the cut-on fly facings to the wrong side: on the right along the center front line, on the left 1 cm short of the center front line (= underlap allowance). Pin the zipper, face up, to the left edge of the opening, place the button catch, folded in half wrong sides together, on top with raw edges aligned, and stitch through all layers; fold the button catch out and edgestitch along the zipper. Pin the opening closed, matching the center front lines. Stitch the free zipper tape to the right fly facing only, without catching the trouser front. Overlock the seam allowances and, from the wrong side, stitch a securing zigzag along the lower edges of the fly facing and button catch. Topstitch the right front half along the fly, catching the fly facing.
- Stitch the inseams and side seams. Stitch the side seams of the front and back pant half facings. Place the facings on the trousers, right sides together, and stitch along the top edge; turn and press. From the right side, edgestitch the top edge of the trousers. Press the trouser hem allowance to the wrong side, turn under the raw edge and stitch close to the edge.
- Skirt: Press the allowance of the wrap edge of the center front skirt to the wrong side, turn under the raw edge and topstitch 5–7 mm from the edge. Press the top edge allowances of the back skirt and side front skirt to the wrong side, turn under and baste. From the right side, edgestitch the top edge of the skirt.
- Front belt: Place the two front belt pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge and the fastening end; turn and press. Place the interfaced layer of the belt on the waist edge of the skirt front, right sides together, and stitch. Fold the belt up, press the open edge under and stitch it down, continuing the topstitching around the belt except at the side edge.
- Stitch the side seams of the skirt. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, turn under and baste. Topstitch the skirt hem 5–7 mm from the edge. Sew a piece of hook-and-loop tape (Velcro) to the belt. Tack the skirt to the trousers at the side seams.
