Straight Leg Trousers with Wide Hem Turn-Ups
Women's straight-leg trousers with wide turn-ups at the hem, back darts, a zip fly with a fly shield and a straight waistband fastened with one button.
When To Wear
- For the office with a blouse or a jacket.
- In autumn, winter and spring in wool suiting, with loafers or ankle boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight leg with a pressed crease down the front and back.
Length: Ankle length, finished with turn-ups.
Front: Zip fly with a separate fly shield; the right front is topstitched along the fly. No pockets.
Closure: Zip fly and one button with a buttonhole at the right end of the waistband.
Back: Centre back seam and one dart in each back half.
Waist: Straight one-piece waistband, interfaced on half its width, folded lengthwise and topstitched all round.
Legs: The hem allowance is turned up and stitched, then the wide turn-up is folded along the marking and tacked to the side seams and inseams.
Level Of Difficulty
Beginner. Darts, a zip fly with a fly shield and a straight waistband; the turn-ups are cut on and simply folded and tacked.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or blended suiting fabrics with added elastane; the sample is made in wool crepe.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (half the width of the waistband)
- 1 zip
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Button Catch (fly shield) – 1 piece
- Front Half – 2 pieces
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Strip for half the width of the Waistband
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce half the width of the Waistband with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the darts on the Back Halves.
- Sew the front center seam below the slit mark, and also the back center seam.
- Create the zipper fly with attached fly shield: press the zipper facing cut in one with the Front Half to the wrong side: on the right - along the center front line, on the left - stopping 1 cm before the center front line (= zipper allowance).
- Pin the zipper, turned sideways, to the left edge of the opening, place the Button Catch (fly shield), folded in half wrong sides together, on top, aligning the edges, and stitch all layers; smooth out the fold so it shows evenly and stitch a securing line along the edge of the zipper.
- Pin the slit, aligning the center front lines.
- Stitch the free zipper tape to the facing of the right side of the opening, without catching the fabric of the Front Half.
- Overlock the seam allowances and from the wrong side, stitch a securing zigzag stitch along the bottom edges of the front facings.
- Topstitch the right Front Half along the zipper, catching the facing.
- Stitch the inseams and side seams.
- Waistband: fold the Waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends; turn out and press.
- Place the interfaced half of the Waistband, turned downwards, on the waist edge of the trousers on the right side and stitch.
- Straighten the waistband, press the open edge inwards and stitch to the main garment, continuing the decorative stitch around the entire perimeter of the waistband.
- Press the pant hem allowance inwards, turn under the edges and stitch along the edge.
- Fold the turn-up along the markings and tack it to the side seams and inseams.
- Work a buttonhole on the right end of the waistband; sew on a button.
