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Minervainervabeta
#4880
#4882

Sleeveless Rolled Collar Fit and Flare Dress

Pattern #4881

A sleeveless knee-length women's dress with a waist seam, princess seams in the bodice and skirt, a folded band collar sewn into a ring and slanted pockets in the skirt front. Concealed zipper in the centre back seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Collar Neck Fit & Flare Dress

A sleeveless knee-length women's dress with a waist seam, princess seams in the bodice and skirt, a folded band collar sewn into a ring and slanted pockets in the skirt front. Concealed zipper in the centre back seam.

When To Wear

  • In summer on its own, in cooler weather over a fine top or with a cardigan or jacket.
  • For the office and daytime events.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice, seam at the natural waist, skirt flaring to the hem. The princess seams start at the armhole and continue in the skirt panels.

Length: To the knee.

Collar: Round neckline with a band collar cut in one interfaced piece, joined into a ring with the seam at the left shoulder and folded in half lengthwise; the inner layer is topstitched into the attaching seam.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with a 4 cm folded bias strip turned to the inside and topstitched along the fold.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam, set between two marks below the collar.

Pockets: Slanted pockets in the side lower fronts, starting at the waist seam; the opening is interfaced and faced with the pocket bag, which is joined to a separate front side piece.

Back: Centre back seam running from the neckline to the hem; princess seams in the upper and lower back.

Skirt: Six panels at the front (centre front cut on the fold, side lower fronts, front sides) and four at the back, following the bodice princess lines.

Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up 1.2 cm and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams joined across a waist seam, slanted in-seam pockets with a separate front side piece, a concealed zipper and bias-bound armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing (collar, pocket openings)
  • Concealed zipper
  • Bias binding 4 cm wide, armhole length plus 5 cm per armhole (or cut from the main fabric)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 1.2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

  • From main fabric:
    • Center Upper Back – 2 pieces
    • Side Upper Back – 2 pieces
    • Center Lower Back – 2 pieces
    • Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
    • Center Upper Front – 1 piece on fold
    • Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
    • Center Lower Front Part – 1 piece on fold
    • Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
    • Front Side – 2 pieces
    • Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
    • Collar – 1 piece
  • From fusible interfacing:
    • Collar – 1 piece
    • Strips for the pocket openings (Side Lower Front)

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

  1. Fuse interfacing to the Collar.
  2. Fuse interfacing along the pocket opening of the Side Lower Front. Place the Pocket Bag on the Side Lower Front, right sides together, and stitch along the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Place the Side Lower Front on the Front Side and stitch the pocket bag edges together, overlock the allowances.
  3. Stitch the princess seams of the upper and lower back and front pieces, press allowances towards the center and overlock. Stitch the upper and lower back and front pieces, press allowances upwards and overlock.
  4. Overlock the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the hem. Press the center seam allowances open, also pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
  5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
  6. Fold the Collar right sides together and stitch its ends into a ring, press allowances open. Fold the collar in half lengthwise right side out and press. Stitch the outer side of the collar to the neckline (the collar seam is located at the left shoulder seam), turn under the raw edge of the inner side and topstitch into the attaching seam.
  7. Cut a bias binding (if not ready-made) 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge on the right side and stitch. Clip the allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
  8. Overlock the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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