Tunic Shirt with Curved Hem and Concealed Placket
A women's tunic-length shirt with a horizontal seam above the waist and gathered lower front and back, a concealed button placket, a collar on a stand and a curved hem. Long sleeves with cuffs and a chest patch pocket.
When To Wear
- Over leggings or slim trousers for everyday and office wear.
- In spring and autumn on its own, in summer with the sleeves rolled up.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with bust darts above a horizontal seam; the lower front and back are gathered into this seam and fall loosely to the hem. A horizontal tuck is folded around the garment at the markings and held by topstitching in the seam.
Length: Tunic length, to mid-thigh, with a hem curving up at the side seams.
Collar: Shirt collar on a separate stand, both interfaced, topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge; one button on the stand.
Front: Upper and lower fronts. Separate interfaced right and left plackets; the right placket is folded inside to form a concealed placket with the buttonholes on its inner layer, so the buttons are hidden.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with an opening left in the sleeve seam above the cuff, topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge. Interfaced cuffs with a button and buttonhole.
Pockets: One patch pocket on the left chest, with a 2 cm turned and topstitched top edge.
Back: Back yoke, upper back gathered into the yoke and topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam, lower back gathered into the upper back. All three back pieces are cut on the fold.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Concealed placket, collar on a stand, cuffs with a sleeve opening, gathering into two seams and a tuck over the seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Dense blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, collar, collar stand, cuffs)
- 11 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. Pocket top edge allowance – 2.0 cm. Other allowances – 1.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back Yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Left Front Placket – 1 piece
- Right Front Placket – 1 piece
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Left Front Placket – 1 piece
- Right Front Placket – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Along the upper edge of the Upper Back, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Stitch the Back Yoke to the Upper Back, press allowances upwards, overlock and topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam.
- Along the upper edge of the Lower Back, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Stitch the Lower Back to the Upper Back, press allowances and overlock.
- Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards.
- Overlock the upper pocket allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Press side and lower pocket allowances to the wrong side. Place the Pocket on the left front according to the markings and topstitch.
- Along the upper edge of the Lower Front, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Stitch the Lower Front to the Upper Front, press allowances and overlock.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Fold a horizontal tuck around the garment at the markings and secure it with a line of topstitching in the seam joining the lower parts.
- Right front: Stitch the Right Front Placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Press the placket inwards to the wrong side along the "front edge" and "concealed placket edge" lines. Topstitch the placket into the attachment seam. Fold the inner part of the placket back towards the front edge and press. Left front: Stitch the Left Front Placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the inner edge inwards by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam. Make buttonholes on the inner (concealed) part of the right placket.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked stand attachment seam line. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the outer stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner stand and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch a decorative seam 0.1 cm along the collar and collar stand.
- Overlock the sleeve seam edges. Stitch the sleeve seam from the mark upwards, press the allowances open. Topstitch along the slit 0.1 cm from the edge. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock allowances and press towards the sleeve.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side seams. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the stand and cuffs. Sew buttons on the left front.
