Elbow Sleeve Placket Dress with Welt Pockets

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Center upper front part – 1 piece
  • Side upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Welt pocket – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Welt pocket – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 – 0.7 cm. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front part, press allowances towards the center and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 – 0.7 cm. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
4. Fold the welt pocket piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Place the welt pockets on the front according to markings and topstitch.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
6. Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place facing and garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Topstitch the facing to the front along the outer edge.
7. Fold placket pieces right sides together and stitch the upper corner. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Attach the outer edge of the placket to the front, ending the stitching precisely at the marked attachment seam of the lower edge. Press allowances towards the placket, clip at the corner. Fold the allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch in the attachment seam. Overlap the right placket over the left, tuck the ends inwards, and stitch, securing the lower edge.
8. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
9. Serge the hem allowance of the dress and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. Stitch two decorative lines across the plackets, securing them together.