Skirt with Guipure Insert

Name: Skirt with Guipure Insert
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4073
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4073

A women's knee-length lined skirt with a diagonal front seam that opens from a mark down to the hem into a slit, showing a guipure insert set into the lining underneath. Faced waist without a waistband, back darts and an invisible zip in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres for the skirt; guipure or lace for the insert.

Tech. Description

Skirt with Guipure Insert

When To Wear

For the office with a blouse or fine knit top.
For daytime and evening events, where the guipure insert shows when walking.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Slightly flared towards the hem.

Length: Knee length.

Front: Cut in right and left panels joined by a diagonal seam from the waist to a mark; below the mark the seam stays open as a slit. The bias edge of the right panel is stabilised with 1.5 cm fusible stay tape; the slit edges are topstitched 0.7 cm from the fold, with a bar tack at the top corner.

Back: One piece with two darts.

Waist: No waistband; finished with interfaced front and back facings, understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.

Closure: Invisible zip in the left side seam.

Lining: Full lining made of an upper part, two side parts with the guipure insert between them, and a back part with the dart fullness laid as soft pleats; joined to the facings and hand-sewn to the zip tape.

Finishing: Skirt hem blind-stitched by hand; lining hem turned and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. An open diagonal slit on a bias edge, a lining assembled with a lace insert that has to line up with the slit, facings and an invisible zip.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres for the skirt; guipure or lace for the insert.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front and back facings)
Fusible stay tape, 1.5 cm wide
1 invisible zip

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance on main fabric pieces – 2 cm, hem allowance on lining and guipure insert pieces – 1.5 cm, allowance on the section from the mark to the bottom on the right and left front panels — 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on patterns are on the right side.

From main fabric:
- Back Skirt – 1 piece
- Right Front Skirt – 1 piece
- Left Front Skirt – 1 piece
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Front Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back Half Lining – 1 piece
- Upper Lining – 1 piece
- Side Lining – 2 pieces
From guipure:
- Insert – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Front Facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the facings. Fuse 1.5 cm wide fusible stay tape along the bias-cut edge of the Right Front Skirt.
Stitch the Right Front Skirt and Left Front Skirt together from the upper edge to the mark. Clip the seam allowances at the mark. Overlock the seam from the upper edge to the mark and press towards the right side seam. Overlock and press the allowances along the slit on the right and left pieces.
Stitch the darts on the Back Skirt, press them towards the center.
Stitch the right side seam. Overlock the seam and press towards the back. Overlock the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam from the zipper notch to the bottom. Press seams open. Insert the invisible zipper, press the seam.
Overlock the hem allowance, press and hem with blind stitches. Topstitch the slit allowances on the front 0.7 cm from the fold. Place a bar tack at the corner of the slit.
Stitch the guipure Insert between the Side Lining pieces. Overlock the seam and press towards the side seam. Stitch on the Upper Lining, overlock the seam and press upwards. On the Back Half Lining, fold the dart allowances into soft pleats and secure. Stitch, overlock and press the right side seam of the lining. Stitch, overlock and press the right side seam of the Front Facing and Back Facing. Stitch the facings to the lining, overlock the seam and press downwards. Stitch the left side seam of the lining, leaving the opening for the zipper. Overlock the seam and press.
Place the lining and skirt right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Topstitch the allowances to the facing at a distance of 0.2 cm from the stitching line. Fold the lining to the wrong side, press. Turn under the open edges of the facing and lining and sew them to the zipper tape. Overlock, fold and topstitch the lower edge of the lining.