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#4073
#4075

Sleeveless blouse with jabot

Pattern #4074

A fitted sleeveless women's blouse at hip length with a jabot: two layered flounces with rolled edges finish a keyhole opening at the centre front. The stand collar carries a pleated frill and fastens with one button; an invisible zip sits in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: blouse fabric of natural or blended fibres: silk, viscose, blends.

Tech. Description

Sleeveless blouse with jabot

A fitted sleeveless women's blouse at hip length with a jabot: two layered flounces with rolled edges finish a keyhole opening at the centre front. The stand collar carries a pleated frill and fastens with one button; an invisible zip sits in the left side seam.

When To Wear

  • At the office under a jacket or cardigan, with a pencil skirt or trousers.
  • On its own in summer, or for daytime events and dinners.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust and waist darts on the front and darts on the back.

Length: To the hip.

Collar: Stand collar in two pieces with a pleated frill (collar stand placket) set into its upper edge. The frill's edges are finished with a narrow rolled hem. One button and buttonhole at the stand.

Front: Two front pieces with a centre front seam below a keyhole opening. The opening is faced with the jabot: flounce 2 laid over flounce 1, both rolled-hemmed and treated as one piece, turned to the right side.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with a 4 cm bias binding folded double and topstitched along the fold.

Closure: Invisible zip in the left side seam.

Back: Centre back seam and darts.

Finishing: Hem turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Rolled hems on flounces and frill, facing a neckline opening with a flounce, a stand collar with an inserted pleated frill, bias-bound armholes and a side invisible zip.

Fabric Recommendations

Blouse fabric of natural or blended fibres: silk, viscose, blends.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing
  • Invisible zip
  • 1 button
  • Bias binding 4 cm wide (or cut from the fabric)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2.0 cm, allowance for outer edges of flounces, side and upper edges of collar stand placket – 0 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

  • From main fabric:
    • Back - 2 pieces
    • Front - 2 pieces
    • Collar stand – 2 pieces
    • Flounce_1 – 2 pieces
    • Flounce_2 – 2 pieces
    • Collar stand placket - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

  1. Finish the outer contour of the flounce pieces with a narrow rolled hem, layer flounce_2 over flounce_1, secure along the upper and middle edges, and treat as one piece thereafter.
  2. Stitch darts on the front. Press waist darts towards the center front, bust darts upwards.
  3. Stitch darts on the back. Press darts towards the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam to the left side and finish.
  4. Face the front neckline with the flounce. Clip allowances at the end of the neckline, finish. Turn flounces to the right side, align flounce edges with the center front edge. Stitch the center front edge, press allowances to the left side and finish.
  5. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and finish.
  6. Finish the upper and side edges of the collar stand placket with a narrow rolled hem. Create even pleats on the placket. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the placket between them and stitch the upper, side edges and the transitional end, starting the seam at the marked collar stand insertion allowance. Clip allowances at the mark. Turn the collar stand to the right side, straighten seams, press.
  7. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the outer collar stand.
  8. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide to finish the armhole. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Align the binding with the armhole edge on the right side and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
  9. Finish the left side edges separately. Stitch side seams, leaving an opening for the zipper in the left side seam. Press the left seam open, press the right seam towards the back and finish. Insert the zipper into the left side seam. Secure the side seam allowance to the armhole with 2-3 stitches.
  10. Finish the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
  11. Finish the buttonhole on the right side of the collar stand. Sew on the button accordingly.

Features

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Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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