Zip Front Active Jacket
A women's fitted hip-length jacket with a separating front zip, a stand collar joined to the front yokes, a V-shaped seam across the lower front and two zip pockets. Side panels on front and back.
When To Wear
- For walks, sport and travel in spring and autumn.
- With jeans, leggings or track trousers for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by side panels, front darts and a centre back seam.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar of two layers, outer and inner (inner interfaced); the outer collar is set into the front and back neckline and joined to the front yokes, which run in a curved seam from the collar to the armhole.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, hem turned up and topstitched.
Front: Front yoke, upper front and lower front, with darts on the front and a V-shaped seam between upper and lower front.
Closure: Separating zip set between the jacket and the interfaced centre front facings, topstitched alongside.
Pockets: Two zip pockets in the lower fronts: the zip is set under the cut edges of the opening with the teeth showing and stitched from the right side; pocket bags of knit lining.
Back: Centre back seam and curved side panel seams; interfaced back neckline facing.
Finishing: Seams serged; hem turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Two zip pockets cut into the front, a separating zip sewn between jacket and facings, a stand collar joined to the yokes, many panel seams to match.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight fabrics with body and little stretch: fleece, ponte, scuba knit, sweatshirt fleece.
Additional Supplies
- Knit lining fabric for the pocket bags
- Fusible interfacing (centre front facings, back neckline facing, one stand collar)
- Separating zip for the front
- 2 zips for the pockets
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- From knit lining:
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side, serge.
- Stitch the darts on the front, press the dart intakes upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement on the Lower Front. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marked lines. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make slanted cuts. Press seam allowances to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, sewing from the right side. Place the Pocket Lining right side down onto the wrong side of the Lower Front and baste along the center, upper, and side edges.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline of the front and back. Clip the seam allowances and press towards the Stand Collar.
- Stitch the Front Yoke with the Stand Collar to the Upper Front. Serge seam allowances and press towards the yoke.
- Stitch the Lower Front and Upper Front together. Serge seam allowances and press upwards.
- Stitch the Side to the front and back. Serge seam allowances and press towards the center back and center front respectively.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press the seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Stitch the inner Stand Collar to the neckline of the facings, clipping into the corner of the Center Front Facing. Clip the seam allowances and press towards the Stand Collar.
- Place the facings right side down onto the right side of the jacket and stitch the front edges, the upper edge of the Stand Collar and the lower corners, inserting the separating zipper between the layers. Clip seam allowances, trim corners, turn to the right side and press. Tack the Back Neckline Facing to the shoulder seams. Topstitch along the zipper.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
