Cropped Double Breasted 3/4 Sleeve Blazer

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. This model does not have a bust dart; for larger sizes, it is recommended to choose a model with a bust dart. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 2 buttons; 1 inner button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for back bottom – 4 cm, for sleeve bottom – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar - 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interfacing).
2. Stitch the darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
3. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the jacket.
4. Place the upper collar on the undercollar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seams at the curves, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
6. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at curves. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the buttoning area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the jacket front. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
7. Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the back neckline facing and front facing, clipping at the corner. Clip the collar attachment seam allowances, press open, and secure close to the seams.
8. Fold the attached front facing down at the side seam and stitch the side seams. Press the back allowance upwards.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press allowances.
10. Stitch the lining pieces, leaving a technological opening in the left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the back neckline facing, front facing, and bottom of the back. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the technological opening. Sew up the opening.
11. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the inner button.