Leather Moto Jacket with Zippers

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: artificial or natural leather. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining; one separating zipper (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece); 2 zippers for pockets; 2 snaps; 2 decorative snaps; shoulder pads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm, bottom allowances for back, side panel, and side front piece - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back piece – 2 pieces
  • Side back piece – 2 pieces
  • Center front piece right – 1 piece
  • Center front piece left – 1 piece
  • Side front piece – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke — 2 pieces
  • Front side panel — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke — 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve piece – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve insert — 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve insert — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Pocket facing - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve placket — 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back piece – 2 pieces
  • Center front piece – 2 pieces
  • Side back piece – 2 pieces
  • Side front piece – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve piece – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag — 2 pieces

Attention! Markings on patterns are made on the right side!

Sewing Instructions

1. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press allowances open. Topstitch on both sides of the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the center back seam. Press allowances open in the same way.
2. Attach the back yoke to the back. Press allowance upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seam.
3. Attach the front side panel to the side front piece. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked pocket line. On the side panel, clip allowances at the pocket marking, press the princess seam towards the center, press the pocket opening open.
4. Topstitch the pocket facing to the large pocket bag. Mark the pocket placement on the front. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts (on the side front piece). Turn the pocket allowances to the wrong side through the resulting opening, straighten the edges. Attach the pocket bags right sides to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, stitching from the right side and folding back the pocket bags. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags, catching the corners.
5. Topstitch along the princess seam at 0.2 cm from the seam, starting and ending the stitching at the pocket opening.
6. Attach the right side front piece to the front. Press allowances away from the center. Topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the left side front piece to the front, inserting the separating zipper. Press allowances away from the center. Topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seam.
7. Attach the yoke to the front. Press allowance onto the yoke and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seam.
8. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
9. Stitch the upper sleeve piece, insert, and lower sleeve insert. Press allowances onto the insert and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seams. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the mark indicating the slit. Clip the allowance on the lower sleeve piece at the mark. Press allowance onto the upper sleeve piece and topstitch along the elbow seam at 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the jacket. Sew in shoulder pads.
10. Fold the collar stands right sides together and stitch along the outer edges. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the outer edges.
11. Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings and neckline facing. Press allowances open. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set in the sleeves.
12. Attach the zipper to the right front edge (teeth facing away from the edge). Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the bottom of the front edge, along the front edge, the neckline, inserting the collar. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, and press. Press up the bottom allowances. Attach the lining to the facings and neckline facing. Attach the bottom edge of the lining to the bottom of the garment. Press allowances open.
13. Attach the lining to the sleeve allowances along the slit. Secure the bottom edges of the sleeve and lining at 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the step and the short side. Trim allowances and turn the piece right side out. Turn allowances inwards and press. Stitch the cuff edges, inserting the sleeve between them. Topstitch the cuff along the contour, continuing the stitching from attaching the cuff to the sleeve.
14. Topstitch along the contour of the collar stand.
15. Topstitch an additional decorative stitch along the front edge at 0.5 cm from the zipper. Topstitch along the bottom of the side front pieces and back. Attach snaps to the cuffs. Attach decorative snaps to the lapels.