Jacket with Gathered Peplum

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; shoulder pads; 4 hook-and-eye closures. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom – 2 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to corresponding pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces, trim dart depths to 1 cm, press towards the center and overcast. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
3. Along the upper edge of the lower back part, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Trim dart depths on front pieces to 1 cm. Stitch darts, press depths towards the center, overcast.
5. Along the upper edge of the lower front underlay, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press allowances upwards, overcast.
6. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back, overcast.
7. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and upper edge. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves, turn collar stand right side out, shape, press. Attach collar stand to neckline.
8. Fold placket piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch short sides. Turn placket right side out, shape, press.
9. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings. Overcast outer edge. Fold front facings to main garment right sides together and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and lower edge, inserting the placket and loops between the left front facing and the front. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves, turn front facings with facing to the wrong side, shape, press. Secure facing to shoulder seams and center back seam.
10. Stitch elbow and front seams of the sleeve, press allowances towards the upper part, overcast. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper part, press allowances and overcast. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Overcast hem allowance of bottom and sleeve, fold to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Sew hooks onto the right front corresponding to the loops.