Raglan Sleeve Zippered Stand Collar Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; small raglan shoulder pads; separating zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3 cm. Allowance along the sleeve slit – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the darts on the front, press the allowances upwards.
3. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge.
4. Attach the back sleeve parts to the back, press allowances towards the sleeve, serge. Attach the front sleeve parts to the front, press allowances towards the sleeve, serge.
5. Serge the upper edges of the sleeves separately. Stitch the upper sleeve seam from the upper edge to the mark, press allowances open. Stitch the lower sleeve edges and side edges in one continuous seam, press allowances towards the back, serge. Sew in shoulder pads.
6. Stitch the center seam of the back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge.
7. Place the front facings and neckline facing right side down onto the right side of the garment and stitch the front edges, the edge of the one-piece stand collar, and the bottom corners, inserting the separating zipper between the pieces.
8. Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Hem the allowances of the sleeve slit with blind stitches.