Cropped Yoke Jacket Flap Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 3 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 4 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces

  Attention: back pieces from lining fabric are cut WITHOUT considering the width of the back neckline facing and back hem facing.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch shoulder and waist darts on back pieces, press dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open.
3. Stitch bust darts, trim dart intakes to 1 cm, press towards the center.
4. Fold flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn flap right side out, straighten, press. Make a buttonhole.
5. Attach the yoke to the front, inserting the flap according to markings. Press seam allowances towards the yoke.
6. Stitch side and shoulder seams, clipping at the corner near the neckline, press seam allowances open.
7. Stitch the center seam of the one-piece collar, press seam allowances open. Attach the collar to the neckline, press seam allowances open.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Attach back hem facing to front facings, press seam allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar, press seam allowances open. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, press seam allowances open.
9. Fold the front facing with the main garment right sides together and stitch all around the front edge, collar, and bottom. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Stitch lining pieces similarly to main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach lining to facings and front facings. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams.
12. Mark and press up the garment hem. Face the garment hem and sleeve hem with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
13. On the right front, make a buttonhole, on the left, sew on a button. Sew buttons corresponding to the flap buttonholes.