Pointed Collar Dress with Puffed Sleeves
A women's midi button-front dress with a seam under the bust: the upper bodice is shaped with bust and waist darts, the lower part with pleats. Long sleeves gathered at the cap and wrist into buttoned cuffs, and a flat collar cut from a second, contrasting fabric.
When To Wear
- At the office or for daytime outings in autumn and spring.
- With tights and ankle boots in cooler weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted above the bust seam, widening below through the pleats.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Collar: Flat collar with pointed ends in a contrasting fabric, interfaced, set between the dress and the front facings.
Closure: Buttons and buttonholes down the centre front; the front edges are finished with interfaced facings joined to a back neckline facing.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves, gathered at the cap and the lower edge; a slit at the sleeve seam; interfaced cuffs with buttons.
Front: Upper fronts with bust and waist darts; lower fronts with pleats turned towards the centre.
Back: Centre back seam; upper back with darts; lower back with a pleat turned towards the centre.
Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked; hem allowance 3 cm.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Darts and pleats joined at a bust seam, a collar set between the dress and the facings, gathered sleeves with slits and cuffs, buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres; a second fabric for the collar.
Additional Supplies
- Contrasting fabric for the collar
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, cuffs, back neckline facing)
- 11 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back - 2 pieces
- Upper front - 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 2:
- From fusible interlining:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center.
- Form and secure the pleat on the lower back. The pleat depth is directed towards the center. Attach the lower back to the upper back. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center, bust darts upwards. Form and secure the pleats on the lower front. The pleat depths are directed towards the center. Attach the lower front to the upper front. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collars right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Place front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch along the front edges and the neckline edge of the back and front (the collar is positioned between the pieces). Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn facings with the back neckline facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure to the garment at shoulder seams and the center back seam.
- Along the sleeve cap and lower sleeve edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Overlock sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the cap to the slit mark. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit at 0.2 cm.
- Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked seam line for cuff attachment. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the front and cuffs. Sew on buttons according to the buttonholes.
