Draped Surplice Cap Sleeve Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: well-draping dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams – 1.0 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm; sleeve hem allowance – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Attention! Before cutting, make sure that the lower part of the front panel fits across the fabric width. Otherwise, the piece is cut without a fold, with a seam in the middle.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece with a fold
  • Front waistband – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the back. Trim dart allowances with an overlocker and press towards the center.
3. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press the allowance upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem. Insert the concealed zipper.
5. Form and secure pleats on the upper front part. Press the pleats away from the center.
6. Overcast the outer edges of the front neckline facings. Place facings and front right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Overlap the right front over the left and secure at the lower edge.
7. Attach the front waistband to the upper front part. Overcast the allowance and press downwards. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Overcast the allowance and press upwards.
8. Overcast the outer edges of the back neckline facings. Place facings and back right sides together and stitch the neckline strictly up to the shoulder seam line. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press.
9. Stitch the shoulder seam, inserting the front between the back and the back facing. Overcast the allowance and press towards the back.
10. Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Overcast the allowance and press.
11. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the tails, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
12. Stitch the side seams. Overcast the allowances and press towards the back.
13. Overcast the hem allowance, press inwards and topstitch.
14. Secure the front panels together with blind stitches.