Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for back and sleeve bottom - 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Central upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Side upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Central lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Side lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Central upper front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Side upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part — 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press allowances upwards and serge.
3. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center and serge.
5. Serge the center and lower edges of the lower front part separately. Stitch the center edge of the lower front part from the top to the mark. Press allowance open, simultaneously pressing the hem allowance. Topstitch the shaped lower front hem allowance to the wrong side and press. At the junction of the front parts, make a horizontal stitch to prevent fabric tearing.
6. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press allowances upwards and serge.
7. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, smooth, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam. Serge the allowance and press towards the back. Serge the lower sleeve edge, fold allowance inwards and topstitch. Form and secure the back pleats, with depths facing each other. Overlap the back sleeve part onto the front by 0.5 cm, form the first front pleat, then the back pleat, etc. Secure the pleats together. Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts. Serge the allowance and press upwards.
10. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and serge.
11. Serge the lower back edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch.