Summer Coat
A women's mid-calf coat with a waist seam, a double-breasted front and a wide shawl-shaped collar. The bodice is shaped by princess seams, the lower part is pleated, and the coat is fully lined and worn with a buckled self-fabric belt.
When To Wear
- In spring, summer and early autumn as a light coat over dresses or trousers and a top.
- Belted at the waist for daytime and office wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams front and back, a waist seam and a flared lower part with pleats turned towards the centre.
Length: Mid-calf.
Collar: Wide shawl-shaped collar that runs down the front to the waist, cut double and set into the neckline.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves; a tab sewn into the front sleeve seam wraps the lower sleeve and fastens with a button.
Front: Double-breasted, eight buttons in four pairs, with an inner button on the left front; front facings, edge topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back seam through the bodice and the lower part, princess seams on the upper back.
Waist: Separate belt topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, fastened with a buckle and punched holes.
Finishing: Shoulder pads; back neck facing.
Lining: Full lining cut from the same panels, minus the front facings and back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Multi-panel bodice with princess seams, pleats joined to a waist seam, two-piece sleeves with tabs, a collar set between coat and facing, full lining and buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing, sleeve tabs, belt)
- Shoulder pads
- 10 buttons
- 1 inner button
- Belt buckle
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper back pieces, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press seam allowances to the left side.
- Form and secure the pleats on the lower back pieces, with depths directed towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the lower back, press seam allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the lower and upper back pieces, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper front pieces, press seam allowances towards the center. Form and secure the pleats on the lower front pieces, with depths directed towards the center. Stitch the lower and upper front pieces, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge side seams from waist to hem.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip curves and trim corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Fold sleeve tab pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along one long and one short side. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, inserting the sleeve tab into the front seam, press seam allowances. Set sleeves into armholes, easing the cap, press seam allowances. Insert shoulder pads.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Double-fold the lining hem allowance by 1 cm and topstitch. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing. Press seam allowances towards the front facing and serge.
- Serge and press the bottom hem allowance to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and back neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the garment right side out, shape the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the front edge.
- Attach the lining to the sleeve hems. Turn the garment right side out.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left front. Make an inner buttonhole on the left front, sew on the inner button. Sew buttons on the sleeve tabs.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Serge the short side. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge all around. Thread and secure the buckle on the serged side of the belt. Punch holes.
