Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 6 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment - 3.5 cm, for the side edges of the welt, facing, and pocket bags – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: Front and back pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the front facing and back neckline facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Press the welt lengthwise in half, right side out. Interface the pocket placement area with fusible interfacing. Mark the finished width line on the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt right side down on the right side of the front piece, aligning with the marked line (closer to the center). Stitch the welt. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts to the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open. Overcast the side seam allowances from the bottom to the waist.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves, turn collar right side out and press. Stitch collar into neckline.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, easing the sleeve in the upper part of the cap and matching notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- Fold cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the bottom and side edges. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves, turn cuff right side out and press. Stitch cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, overlapping the front corner onto the back.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press allowances open.
- Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Turn under the hem allowance of the lining twice by 1 cm and stitch. Stitch the lining to the front facings and back facing. Press allowances towards the front facing and overcast.
- Overcast and press the bottom hem allowance to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and back neckline. Stitch the bottom edges of the front facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the bottom corners of the front edge. Turn the coat right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front and collar.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out.
- On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew buttons on the cuffs.
