Pleated Blouse with Chiffon Inserts

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Chiffon in matching or contrasting colors. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; lace; invisible zipper; two buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance - 2 cm; other seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Back part of sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front part of sleeve — 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 4 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From chiffon:
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From lace:
  • Front insert – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the pleats on the front and back pieces. Press the pleat depths towards the center and secure with hand stitches.
3. Finish the raw edges of the center back separately. Stitch the center back from the zipper mark to the hem. Press seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and finish the raw edges.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings. Press seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge. Place the facing onto the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline, inserting the lace and clipping into the corner. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the back facing seam allowances to the zipper tape.
6. Finish the outer edges of the back and front sleeve parts, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Place the outer sleeve parts onto the main sleeve part and secure along the top, side, and bottom edges. Stitch the sleeve seam, finish seam allowances and press towards the back part. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Finish seam allowances.
7. Fold the cuffs right sides together. Stitch the side and bottom edges. Trim seams. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press. Place the front part of the cuff onto the back part and secure together. Attach the cuff to the sleeve. Finish seam allowance and press upwards.
8. Finish the raw edge of the garment hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
9. Sew a button onto the cuff.