Cap Sleeve Round Neck Pleated Midi Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom — 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Belt — 1 piece on fold
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Belt — 1 piece on fold
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, overcast. Form and secure the inverted pleats on the lower back. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Form and secure the inverted pleats on the lower front. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Press the longitudinal edges of the belt to the wrong side. Place the belt on the garment over the waist seam and topstitch.
6. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, smooth, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
9. Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
10. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge right side up, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
11. Overcast the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.