Pleated Surplice Cap Sleeve Dress

Name: Pleated Surplice Cap Sleeve Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2651
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2651

A women's midi dress with a wrap-over bodice: two upper fronts with pleats, lapped right over left and set into a front waistband. Short cap sleeves, a back with darts, a full flared skirt and a concealed zipper in the centre back seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics with good drape, from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Pleated Surplice Cap Sleeve Dress

When To Wear

At summer celebrations and daytime events.
Under a bolero or cardigan in the evening.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a waist seam and a wide flared skirt.

Length: Midi, below the knee.

Neckline: V-neck formed by the overlapping fronts, each finished with an interfaced facing; the fronts are tacked together with blind stitches.

Front: Pleats on each upper front, pressed away from the centre; the bodice is joined to a separate waistband, then to the skirt.

Sleeves: Cap sleeves set into the upper armhole; the lower armhole is finished with a bias binding 4 cm wide.

Back: Upper back with darts, joined at the waist to a two-piece lower back.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam.

Skirt: Lower front cut in one piece on the fold; if it does not fit across the fabric width, it is cut with a centre front seam.

Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked; hem allowance 2 cm, sleeve hem allowance 1.2 cm.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Overlapping pleated fronts, a shoulder seam with the front sandwiched between back and facing, a concealed zipper and a bias-bound lower armhole.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics with good drape, from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Concealed zipper
Fusible interfacing (neckline facings)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
- Upper back - 2 pieces
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece with a fold
- Front waistband – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
Stitch darts on the back. Trim dart allowances with an overlocker and press towards the center.
Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press the allowance upwards and overlock.
Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem. Insert the concealed zipper.
Form and secure pleats on the upper front. Press the pleats away from the center.
Overlock the outer edges of the front neckline facings. Place facings and front right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Overlap the right front over the left and secure at the lower edge.
Attach the front waistband to the upper front. Overlock the allowance and press downwards. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
Overlock the outer edges of the back neckline facings. Place facings and back right sides together and stitch the neckline strictly up to the shoulder seam line. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press.
Stitch the shoulder seam, inserting the front between the back and the back facing. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back.
Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Overlock the allowance and press.
Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the tails, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
Stitch the side seams. Overlock the allowances and press towards the back.
Overlock the hem allowance, press inwards and topstitch.
Secure the front panels together with blind stitches.