Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; 11 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seam allowances – 1.0 cm, hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 2:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center.
- Form and secure the pleat on the lower back part. The pleat depth is directed towards the center. Attach the lower back part to the upper back part. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center, bust darts upwards. Form and secure the pleats on the lower front part. The pleat depths are directed towards the center. Attach the lower front part to the upper front part. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collars right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Place front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch along the front edges and the neckline edge of the back and front (the collar is positioned between the pieces). Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn facings with the back neckline facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure to the garment at shoulder seams and the center back seam.
- Along the sleeve cap and lower sleeve edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Overlock sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the cap to the slit mark. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit at 0.2 cm.
- Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked seam line for cuff attachment. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Overlock buttonholes on the front and cuffs. Sew on buttons according to the buttonholes.
