Summer Coat

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 10 buttons; 1 inner button; belt buckle. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seam allowances – 1.0 cm, hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Lower back - 2 pieces
  • Center front - 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Lower front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces with fold
  • Sleeve tab - 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Belt - 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Lower back - 2 pieces
  • Center front - 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Lower front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve - 2 pieces

  ATTENTION: Front and back lining pieces are cut excluding the front facing and back neckline facing, respectively.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve tab - 2 pieces
  • Belt - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams on the upper back pieces, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press seam allowances to the left side.
3. Form and secure the pleats on the lower back pieces, with depths directed towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the lower back, press seam allowances to the left side, serge. Stitch the lower and upper back pieces, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
4. Stitch the princess seams on the upper front pieces, press seam allowances towards the center. Form and secure the pleats on the lower front pieces, with depths directed towards the center. Stitch the lower and upper front pieces, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge side seams from waist to hem.
6. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip curves and trim corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
7. Fold sleeve tab pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along one long and one short side. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press.
8. Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, inserting the sleeve tab into the front seam, press seam allowances. Set sleeves into armholes, easing the cap, press seam allowances. Insert shoulder pads.
9. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press seam allowances open.
10. Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Double-fold the lining hem allowance by 1 cm and topstitch. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing. Press seam allowances towards the front facing and serge.
11. Serge and press the bottom hem allowance to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and back neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the garment right side out, shape the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the front edge.
12. Attach the lining to the sleeve hems. Turn the garment right side out.
13. Make buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left front. Make an inner buttonhole on the left front, sew on the inner button. Sew buttons on the sleeve tabs.
14. Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Serge the short side. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge all around. Thread and secure the buckle on the serged side of the belt. Punch holes.