Open Front Jacket

Name: Open Front Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2296
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2296

A hip-length, unlined women's jacket with no fastening, a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts and joined by a seam at the centre back neck, front darts and long set-in sleeves. The front edges drop to pointed corners at the hem. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: soft suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres, or knit fabric with low stretch.

Tech. Description

Open Front Jacket

When To Wear

As a light layer in spring and autumn over a top or blouse.
Over a dress or with trousers for the office, worn open.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the body by darts on the fronts, ending at the hip.

Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the fronts; the collar seam is joined at the centre back and the collar is set into the back neckline. Facings and back neck facing are cut with a matching collar section.

Front: Open, with no buttons; front edges finished with fused facings and angled to a point at the lower corner.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece set-in sleeves with a single underarm seam.

Back: One piece cut on the fold; the front points hang below the back hem.

Finishing: Front edge and collar topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge. Jacket hem and sleeve hems have 3 cm allowances, overlocked, turned up and topstitched; all other seams 1 cm.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A cut-on shawl collar joined at the back neck and set into the back neckline and facing, with clipping at the shoulder corner, plus bagged-out front edges and set-in sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Soft suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres, or knit fabric with low stretch.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
From fusible interlining:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Interface the pieces with fusible interlining.
Stitch the darts on the front pieces, press the dart allowances upwards.
Stitch the collar seam, folding the front pieces right sides together, press the allowances open. Stitch and press open the jacket shoulder seams, serge the allowances. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front piece and set the collar into the back neckline, press the allowances towards the collar.
Stitch, clip at the corner, and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the collar edge, press the allowances open. Set the collar into the facing neckline, press the allowances open. Serge the outer edge of the front facings and facing.
Fold the front facings and facing with the front piece right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and bottom corner. Trim the allowances at the corners, clip at the curves. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams, press. Secure the collar insertion allowances together.
Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, press and serge the allowances.
Serge the bottom of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.