Collared Shirt with Chest Pockets
A women's long-sleeved, hip-length shirt with a collar on a separate stand, a sewn-on button placket, two patch pockets on the chest and a lined back yoke. Shaped by bust darts on the fronts and vertical darts on the back.
When To Wear
- At the office with trousers or a skirt, tucked in or worn loose.
- Under a jacket or knitwear in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, with bust darts pressed upwards on the fronts and back darts pressed towards the centre.
Collar: Shirt collar topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, set between the two layers of an interfaced collar stand.
Front: Separate interfaced placket stitched to each front, with buttonholes on the right placket and on the stand.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the chest, with a turned and topstitched upper edge.
Back: Double back yoke with the back sandwiched between the two layers; back cut on the fold.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit at the lower edge and pleats pressed towards the sleeve seam, finished with one-piece cuffs folded in half and buttoned.
Finishing: Hem turned twice by 0.7 cm and topstitched; seams overlocked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, sewn-on plackets, a double yoke, patch pockets, sleeve slits and cuffs, and ten buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, collar, collar stand, cuffs)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Placket, one Collar piece, one Stand Collar piece and the Cuffs.
- Stitch the darts on the Back. Press the darts towards the center.
- Stitch the two Yoke pieces to the Back, placing them right sides together with the Back sandwiched between them. Fold the yokes upwards and press. Continue to treat as one piece.
- Mark and stitch the bust darts on the Fronts, press the darts upwards.
- Overlock the pocket along the contour. Fold the top edge to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the front according to markings and topstitch.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the outer edge of the Placket to the Front, press allowances towards the Placket. Turn under the inner edge of the Placket and topstitch it over the attaching seam.
- Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, match the notches and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand at the same time. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked neckline seam line. Turn the stand right side out and press. Stitch the outer Stand Collar with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner Stand Collar and topstitch it over the attaching seam.
- Overlock sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Secure allowances along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock. Fold and secure the pleats at the lower edge of the sleeve. Press the pleat depths towards the seam.
- Fold each Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Fold the bottom edge of the garment by 0.7 cm, then again by 0.7 cm, press, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right Placket and the Stand Collar, sew buttons on the left Placket. Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the Cuffs.
