Types of Hems and Their Uses

The most common hem folds the raw edge under, once or twice, and stitches it in place. A double-fold hem encloses the raw edge completely for a clean, durable finish suited to most wovens. A single-fold hem, with the edge finished separately, reduces bulk on heavier fabrics where a double fold would be too thick.

The depth of the fold changes the weight and hang of the edge. A deep hem adds weight that helps a skirt fall smoothly, while a narrow hem keeps a lightweight garment from looking heavy at the bottom.

• Rolled hem: a very narrow hem, machine or hand rolled, ideal for scarves and fine fabrics.
• Baby hem: a tiny double-fold hem for lightweight blouses and shirt tails.
• Bias-bound hem: the edge bound with bias tape, good for curves and unlined jackets.
• Faced hem: a separate facing turned to the inside, useful on shaped or curved hems.
• Horsehair hem: a stiff braid inserted to support the hem of formal and bridal wear.

A blind hem is stitched so almost no thread shows on the outside, either by machine using a blind-hem foot or by hand with a catch or slip stitch. It is the standard for tailored trousers, skirts and dresses where a visible line of stitching would look unfinished. The stitches catch only a thread or two of the outer fabric.

Hand-finished hems remain the mark of quality tailoring because they let the hem hang softly without the slight tension a machine line can impose. They are slower but give the most refined result on fine and formal garments.

Some hems are meant to be seen. A topstitched or double-needle hem, standard on jeans and casual wear, uses visible parallel stitching as a design feature. A cuffed or turned-up hem adds a folded band, as on trousers. A lettuce hem stretches a knit edge as it stitches to create a rippled, decorative finish.

Structural hems do a job beyond finishing. A weighted or chain-weighted hem, used in tailored jackets and couture, adds mass so the garment hangs true, and a horsehair hem holds a formal skirt out in a supported shape.

The right hem depends on the fabric weight, the edge shape and the garment's formality, and it should be chosen before cutting so the pattern includes the correct hem allowance. A rolled hem needs almost none, while a deep tailored hem or a cuff needs several centimeters that must be present in the pattern piece.

Patterns mark the hem allowance and fold line clearly, and getting that allowance right at the drafting stage avoids running short at the edge. Minerva Patterns includes the appropriate hem allowance on its DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF patterns, stated so you know exactly what the edge provides.