High-Neck Dresses and Coats: Funnel Necks, Stand Collars and Mock Necks

A funnel neck is cut in one with the bodice. The neckline of the front and back simply continues upward, flaring slightly outward like a funnel, so there is no seam at the base of the neck. It looks architectural and suits coats and structured dresses.

A stand collar, also called a mandarin collar, is a separate band sewn to the neckline. It stands up around the neck and can be close-fitting or set slightly away from it. A mock neck is a short, close stand, usually cut in knit or as a folded band, that rises only a few centimeters, like a shortened turtleneck. The full turtleneck is a longer folded band in knit fabric, turned down on itself.

A funnel neck is drafted by extending the shoulder seam and the center front and center back lines above the neckline. The shoulder seam continues upward and slightly outward, so the neck rises clear of the throat. If it is drawn straight up, it presses against the neck; angled outward too much, it collapses.

The upper edge of the funnel needs to be longer than the neck circumference at that height, otherwise it will be uncomfortable when you turn your head. Check this measurement on the pattern before cutting. In thicker coat fabrics, add a little extra height and width to account for the thickness of the cloth and the facing.

A stand collar is a band whose lower edge matches the length of the neckline. If the band is drafted as a straight rectangle, it stands away from the neck. Curving the band upward, so the upper edge is shorter than the lower edge, brings it closer to the neck. The more curved the band, the tighter it hugs.

Fashion stand collars on dresses are usually between 3 and 5 cm high. Coat collars are often higher and curved so that they sit close in cold weather but still clear the jaw. Shape the front ends to suit the style: square ends look crisp, rounded ends softer.

A high neck must keep its shape all day. That depends on interfacing and on a well-constructed facing. For a funnel neck, the facing is cut from the same extended pattern as the bodice neckline, and it should be interfaced along its whole height. For a stand collar, interface the outer collar piece, and on coats, interface both pieces.

Choose interfacing that matches the fabric. A light woven fusible suits dress fabrics; a medium-weight or weft insertion fusible is better for coat cloth. A collar that is too stiff will dig into the neck, so test on a scrap, fold it into a curve and see how it behaves.

Understitch the facing to stop it rolling to the outside, and grade the seam allowances so the edge is flat. On a funnel neck, the facing can extend down into a full front facing on a coat, or be combined with an all-in-one armhole and neck facing on a sleeveless dress.

• Trim and grade seam allowances to reduce bulk at the top edge.
• Clip the curve of the neckline before turning so it lies smooth.
• Press the collar over a tailor's ham to keep its curve.
• On a coat, a strip of stay tape along the neckline seam prevents stretching.

A woven dress with a high neck must open wide enough to go over the head. The usual solution is a center back invisible zip that extends to the top of the collar or funnel, finished with a hook and eye above it. A keyhole opening with a button and loop at the back neck is another option, especially on blouses and light dresses.

On coats, a high neck usually closes at the front. A funnel coat can close with a concealed placket, a separating zip, large buttons or a single tab and button at the throat. Placing the top button close to the edge of the funnel keeps it standing up neatly.

Knit mock necks and turtlenecks often need no closure because the fabric stretches. Make sure the head opening is at least the circumference of your head, measured around the widest part; otherwise add a short zip.

High necks expose any difference between your neck and the pattern. A neck that sits forward, a rounded upper back or square shoulders all change how the neckline lies. A toile made from a firm cotton, just the bodice and the collar, is worth the time.

Check that the neckline lies smoothly without wrinkles below the collar, that the collar is level all around, and that you can turn your head and swallow comfortably. If the collar presses at the front, lower the front neckline slightly; if it stands away at the back, the back neck may need to be raised or the collar curved more.

Funnel necks need body, so wool melton, coating, double-face wool, scuba and thick ponte suit them. Stand collars work in almost any woven fabric. Mock necks and turtlenecks belong to knits: jersey, rib and fine merino.

A high neck works best with a clean line below it. Keep jewelry minimal, or wear long earrings. Hair worn up shows the neckline. On a coat, a high neck replaces a scarf, which is why it suits minimal winter outfits.

A high neck relies on an accurate neckline: the right circumference, height and slope of the shoulders. Patterns drafted to your measurements start from your body, so there is less to correct in fitting.

Minerva Patterns drafts each pattern in garment-industry CAD to your measurements or to standard sizes. You choose the format: PDF for A4, US Letter, A0 or one long sheet, a projector file, PLT for a plotter, or DXF AAMA for pattern software, with or without seam allowances.