Long Sleeve Collared Belted Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. You will also need: concealed zipper; fusible interfacing; decorative buckle.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm, vent allowance – 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece
  • Center back - 1 piece
  • Side back - 2 pieces
  • Back insert - 1 piece
  • Lower back - 2 pieces
  • Lower front - 1 piece
  • Side front - 2 pieces
  • Center front left – 1 piece
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Front yoke - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Cuff - 2 pieces
  • Belt — 1 piece
  • Belt loop — 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand - 1 piece
  • Cuff - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Markings on patterns are on the right side!

1. Fuse interfacing to the collar stand, cuffs, and integrated facings.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast.
3. Stitch the darts on the lower back pieces, press depths towards the center. On the left lower back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both lower back pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line, on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center seam from the top to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
4. Attach the back insert to the lower part, press allowances towards the insert and overcast. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances down and overcast.
5. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Attach the yokes to the front pieces, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast. Overcast the inner edges of the integrated facings.
6. On the left front piece, press the integrated facing to the right side and stitch the upper corner. Clip allowances at the neckline corner, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the facing to the front piece along the marked line.
7. On the right front piece, press the integrated facing to the right side and stitch the upper corner. Clip allowances at the neckline corner, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Place the right front piece over the left, aligning the inner edge of the right facing with the bias edge of the left front piece. Topstitch the right facing along the marked line, securing the right and left front pieces.
8. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances down and overcast.
9. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the mark and from the mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
10. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and the collar edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar, shape and press.
11. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, clip allowances and press towards the stand. Turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
12. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and overcast.
13. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Align the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve and attach. Press allowances and overcast. Turn the cuff to the right side.
14. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overcast.
15. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
16. Overcast one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 3 pieces. Attach the belt loops at the waist at the center back and at the side seams.
17. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out and press, overcast the short edge. Thread the overcast edge of the belt through the buckle and topstitch.