Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: medium stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Outer hood seam allowance - 2 cm, all other seam allowances - 0.7 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Pocket side - 2 pieces
- Pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Bottom placket - 1 piece
- Sleeve placket - 2 pieces
- Hood - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock. Attention! Before stitching the side seams, make sure that the shoulders and bust will fit into the tunic at the waist level. Otherwise, it is recommended to use a longer zipper. Stitch the bottom of the zipper into the lower front part, cutting it lengthwise, and at the bottom at an angle.
- Attach the pocket bag to the lower front part. Fold to the wrong side and press. Attach the pocket side to the pocket bag. Finish the seam allowance.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front part, from the mark to the center, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
- Fold the plackets right sides together and insert the zipper between them. Stitch the upper edge, catching the upper edge of the zipper, and the longitudinal edge, inserting the zipper. Turn to the right side and press. Attach the placket to the upper front part, finish the seam allowance.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts, finish the seam allowance. For elasticity, it is recommended to use an overlock or a knit stitch.
- Stitch the center seams on the upper and lower back parts. Finish the seam allowances and press to the left side. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Finish the seam allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Finish the seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the sleeve placket into a loop. Fold in half lengthwise and attach to the sleeve. Finish the seam allowance.
- On the lower front part, along the bottom line, create a box pleat and secure it. Stitch the bottom placket into a loop. Turn the placket right side out, fold in half lengthwise and attach to the tunic. Finish the seam allowance.
- Stitch the hood seam. Finish the seam allowance. Finish the outer edge of the hood, fold under and topstitch. Attach the hood to the tunic. Finish the seam allowance, press towards the back and front. Place a bartack on the neckline seam allowance near the placket.
