Sewing Belt Loops and Carriers

A belt loop bears a concentrated tug at each end whenever the belt is tightened or the wearer pulls the trousers up by them, which people habitually do despite loops not being designed for the whole weight of the garment. The strain lands squarely on the two points where the loop meets the waistband, so those attachment points are where loops almost always fail.

This means the loop itself rarely tears; the stitching at its ends gives way, or it rips the waistband fabric. Good carrier construction therefore focuses at least as much on the attachment as on the strip itself.

1. 1.Cut a strip of fabric several times the finished loop width, along the lengthwise grain for strength.
2. 2.Press both long raw edges to the center, then fold in half again so all raw edges are enclosed.
3. 3.Edgestitch down both long sides, giving a flat strip with two neat topstitched edges.
4. 4.Cut the long strip into individual loops, allowing extra length for the folds at each end.
5. 5.This mirrors the twin-stitched loops on ready-made jeans and is the most common method.

For a rounder, seamless loop, stitch a fabric tube right sides together down its length, then turn it right side out with a loop turner so the seam sits inside. This gives a smooth carrier with no visible topstitching, suited to tailored trousers and skirts where the twin-stitched jeans look would be out of place.

The turned tube is more work and slightly less flat than a folded loop, so it is reserved for garments where a refined finish matters more than the rugged, visible stitching of workwear. Press the finished tube with the seam centered on the underside so it does not show.

• Two at the front, positioned either side of the fly or center front.
• Two at the back, either side of the center-back seam.
• One at each side seam, giving the standard five to seven loop arrangement.
• Space them evenly so the belt is supported all the way around and does not sag between loops.

Attach loops with the ends folded under and stitched down firmly, reinforcing each end with a bartack or several rows of backstitching. On jeans the classic method sews the lower end into the waistband seam and bartacks the upper end to the top of the band, so the loop is anchored at both the strongest points. This is why factory belt loops so rarely come off.

Leave a little slack in each loop, enough for the belt to pass through comfortably, rather than stitching it dead flat against the waistband. A loop stitched too tight either will not admit the belt or transfers all the strain straight to its ends.

Loop length must suit the belt the garment is intended to take, plus enough to fold the ends under and clear the top of the waistband. Too short and the belt jams; too long and the loops flap. The number and position of carriers are usually marked on the pattern as part of the waistband design. Minerva Patterns supplies made-to-measure patterns in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF with waistband and carrier placement marked, so the loops sit evenly and at the correct height for the finished band.