Pattern markings are a precise language. Each symbol carries information that the cutter and sewer rely on to assemble pieces correctly and consistently. In digital workflows these markings are not decoration; they are structured data that drives automatic cutters and plotters.
This article catalogues the core markings and explains how they survive the journey from drafting table to DXF AAMA, PLT or PDF output.
Grainlines and balance
The grainline arrow sets the orientation of each piece on the fabric. Aligning it parallel to the selvage places the lengthwise grain along the intended hang of the garment, which controls how the piece drapes and resists stretching. A piece cut off-grain will twist no matter how accurately it is sewn.
Some pieces carry deliberate bias or cross-grain placement; the grainline communicates that intent unambiguously so the cutter does not default to lengthwise.
Notches as a matching system
Notches mark where seams align. Singles, doubles and triples distinguish which edge matches which and which way a piece faces. A sleeve has a single notch at the front of the cap and a double at the back, so it can never be inserted backward by accident.
On long seams, intermediate notches break the seam into matched segments so ease distributes evenly rather than bunching at one end.
Drill holes and internal reference points
- Dart ends, marked slightly inside the true apex.
- Pocket placement corners.
- Buttonhole and button positions.
- Pleat and tuck reference points.
Pro tip
Drill holes sit just inside the true point so the mark is hidden once the detail is sewn or folded.
Punch holes, awl marks and pattern hooks
On hardboard or oaktag production patterns, drill holes become punched holes and reference points are made with an awl. Many production patterns also carry a hanger hole so the piece can be stored on a pattern hook. These physical features map directly to the internal point entities in a digital file.
How markings are stored digitally
In a DXF AAMA file, the cut line, seam line, grainline, notches and internal drill points are stored as distinct entity types on defined layers. This structure lets a cutting machine read the outline and automatically cut notches and mark drill holes in the correct positions, with no manual interpretation.
When Minerva Patterns exports made-to-measure files in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF, these markings travel with the geometry so the pattern is unambiguous on any compatible plotter or cutter.
Common marking mistakes
Forgetting to transfer notches to fabric is the leading cause of mismatched seams. Cutting drill holes too close to the true apex shows a hole on the finished garment. Reversing a grainline twists the piece. A quick discipline of checking every marking against the pattern before cutting prevents most of these errors.
Frequently asked questions
What do double notches usually mean?
Conventionally, double notches mark the back of a piece or seam, while single notches mark the front. This lets you orient and match pieces without confusion.
Why are drill holes set inside the true point?
So the mark stays hidden once the dart, pocket or pleat is sewn. A hole drilled exactly at the true point would be visible on the finished garment.
How are notches handled by a cutting machine?
They are stored as discrete entities in the DXF AAMA file, so an automatic cutter reads them and cuts each notch in the correct position without manual marking.
Minerva Patterns
Made-to-measure digital patterns, ready to cut
Every pattern is graded to your measurements and delivered as DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF files for cutting, plotting and 3D workflows.
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