Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. Rib knit fabric for cuffs, waistband, and collar stand.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece on fold
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front yoke - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve - 2 pieces
- From rib knit:
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Waistband - 1 piece on fold
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
- Attach the yoke to the front, placing right sides together. Press seam allowances towards the yoke and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the collar stand into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the collar stand in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the collar stand to the neckline, stretching slightly, press seam allowances towards the collar stand, serge.
- Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts, press seam allowances towards the lower part, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the sleeve to the main garment, placing right sides together. Press seam allowances towards the sleeve, serge.
- Stitch sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous seam, press seam allowances towards the back, serge.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, stretching it slightly, press seam allowances towards the sleeve and serge.
- Stitch the waistband into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the waistband, stretching it slightly, to the bottom of the garment, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
Tip: You can use ready-made collar stand, waistband, and cuffs of the desired width.
