Paneled Two-Tone Collared Dress

Fabric & Materials

Also needed: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 2 buttons.

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm; slit allowance – 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric 1:
  • Upper back - 2 pieces
  • Upper front – 2 pieces
• From main fabric 2:
  • Lower central back - 2 pieces
  • Lower side back - 2 pieces
  • Lower central front - 1 piece
  • Lower side front - 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

1. Fuse interfacing to the lower collar and front facings.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back. Press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the upper back parts, press allowances to the left and overlock.
3. Fold and secure pleats on the upper front parts (depths directed downwards).
4. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
5. Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar attachment seam. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams. Overlap the right front over the left and secure at the lower edge.
8. Attach the lower collar to the blouse neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing.
9. On the left lower back, trim 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both lower back parts, fuse interfacing to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left along the slit fold line, on the right, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the parts along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overlock the center back seam separately on each. Overlock the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
10. Stitch the princess seams on the lower back, press allowances towards the center and overlock. Stitch the princess seams on the lower front, press allowances towards the center and overlock.
11. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and overlock. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and overlock.
12. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the bottom. Insert the zipper between the marks.
13. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
14. Overlock the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
15. On the right front, overlock buttonholes, on the left – sew on buttons.