Once the projector is calibrated, cutting is mostly familiar work with one important difference: the pattern is made of light, so it cannot be pinned, and your own hands cast shadows over it. A few habits make the process fast and accurate.
This guide covers preparing the table and fabric, aligning the grain, transferring notches and markings, and working with pieces that are larger than the projected image.
Preparing the table and fabric
Use a flat surface with a cutting mat if you work with a rotary cutter. A mat with a dense printed grid can compete with the projected lines; a plain or dark mat is easier on the eyes. Press the fabric first, because wrinkles lift the cloth and shift the lines slightly.
Lay the fabric flat and smooth, and keep it still. Pattern weights work far better than pins under a projector, since pins pull the fabric and cannot follow a projected outline anyway.
Aligning the grain
Every piece on a Minerva projector sheet carries its grainline. Before cutting, rotate the projected pattern in the software or turn the fabric so that the grainline runs exactly parallel to the selvedge. Measure from the projected grainline to the selvedge at both ends; the two distances should match.
On a fold, place the fold edge along the projected fold line rather than trusting the edge of the fabric, which may not be straight.
Cut directly or mark first
- Direct cutting with a rotary cutter is fastest for stable fabrics and straight or gently curved lines.
- Marking with chalk or a washable pen, then switching the projector off and cutting, is safer for slippery or loosely woven fabrics.
- Shears work well if you keep the lower blade on the table so the fabric does not lift.
- Stand so that your shadow falls away from the line you are following.
Pro tip
If your hand shadow hides the line, move the room light behind you or cut in short strokes, pausing to check the line ahead.
Transferring notches and markings
Notches, dart legs, pocket placements and button positions all show on the projected pattern and need to reach the fabric. Snip notches a few millimeters into the seam allowance while the projector is on. Mark dart points, pocket corners and buttonholes with chalk or tailor's tacks before you move the piece.
Check the piece name and cut quantity printed on each piece. Minerva patterns label every piece with style number, piece name, cut quantity, size, grainline, notches and button placement, and all of these are visible in the projected image.
Pieces larger than the image
- 1.Position the fabric so the whole piece fits on the table, even if it does not fit in the projected image.
- 2.Project the first part of the piece and cut or mark it, including a notch or chalk mark where the image ends.
- 3.Pan the view along the pattern while keeping the scale locked, without moving the fabric.
- 4.Line up the projected lines with the part already cut, then continue.
- 5.Check the finished piece against one known measurement before cutting its partner.
Cutting pairs and mirrored pieces
For a pair, fold the fabric right sides together and cut through both layers, or cut one layer and use the software's mirror function for the second. Switch mirror off again as soon as you are done: a forgotten mirror setting is a classic way to end up with two left sleeves.
Frequently asked questions
Can I cut two layers at once under a projector?
Yes, for most fabrics. Keep both layers smooth and aligned, use weights, and cut with a sharp rotary blade so the lower layer does not shift.
How do I see lines on patterned fabric?
Invert the colors so the lines are lit against a dark background, dim the room, and if needed thicken the line weight in the software.
Do I need to add seam allowances?
Only if the pattern does not include them. Minerva patterns can be ordered with seam allowances included, so the projected outline is the cutting line.
Minerva Patterns
Made-to-measure digital patterns, ready to cut
Every pattern is graded to your measurements and delivered as DXF AAMA, projector PDF, PDF and PLT files for 3D workflows, projector cutting, printing and plotting.
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