Fitted Zipper Jacket with Flap Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• Center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
• Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• Back part of the waistband – 1 QTY
• Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• Front right part of the waistband – 1 QTY
• Front left part of the waistband – 1 QTY
• Collar stand – 2 QTY
• Front FACING – 2 QTY
• Pocket – 2 QTY
• Flap – 4 QTY
• SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• SLEEVE insert – 2 QTY
• CUFF – 2 QTY

Fabric & Materials

FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, collar stand, CUFF, back part of the waistband, front right part of the waistband, front left part of the waistband, back neckline FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, collar stand, CUFF, back part of the waistband, front right part of the waistband, front left part of the waistband, and back neckline FACING.
2. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the closure, the outer contour, and the shaped end. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, clip at curves. Turn the collar stand right side out, press.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the stitching lines.
4. Place the FRONT PANELs right sides together and align the edges, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the front. Fold under the front edges at the ZIPPER section and press.
5. Press the upper SEAM ALLOWANCE of the pockets to the wrong side, fold under and topstitch. Press the side and bottom SEAM ALLOWANCES of the pockets to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the FRONT PANEL according to the markings. Topstitch the patch pockets with a double stitch 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.
6. Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour on 3 sides. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, turn the flap right side out. Straighten the seams and press. Topstitch along the flap with a double stitch 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge. Serge the raw edge of the flap. Serge the buttonhole. Attach the flap to the FRONT PANEL, turn down and topstitch with a double stitch 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Sew a button onto the pocket according to the buttonhole.
7. Serge the outer edge of the front FACING. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams and press.
8. Stitch the shoulder and SIDE PANEL seams. Press the side and shoulder seams towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
9. Stitch the upper collar stand into the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the stitching line. Topstitch along the collar stand. Secure the front FACINGs at the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
10. Attach the front parts of the waistband to the back part. Press seams open. Press the waistband in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the outer part of the waistband to the bottom edge of the jacket, press the attachment seam towards the waistband.
11. Stitch the corners of the waistband. Trim excess fabric at the corners, turn right side out. Fold under the raw edge of the lower waistband and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch around the perimeter of the waistband.
12. Attach the SLEEVE insert to the SLEEVE, leaving the slit section unstitched. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at the mark, press towards the insert, pressing open the slit section. Topstitch along the seam with a double stitch 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
13. Stitch and serge the SLEEVE seam.
14. Fold the CUFF in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the shaped end and the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the closure. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn right side out and press.
15. Attach the outer side of the CUFF to the bottom edge of the SLEEVE. Fold under the upper edge of the inner side of the CUFF and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch along the contour of the CUFF.
16. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the armhole, serge and topstitch with a double stitch 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the stitching line.
17. Serge buttonholes on the collar stand, on the waistband and on the SLEEVE CUFF. Sew on buttons accordingly.