Stand Collar Drawstring Utility Jacket
A hip-length women's windbreaker jacket with a stand collar, a front zip covered by a buttonless placket, four flap pockets and a drawstring waist threaded through two eyelets.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer against wind and drizzle.
- Over T-shirts, shirts and thin knitwear with jeans or trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight body drawn in at the waist by a drawstring; front darts.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar cut in two layers, edge-stitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves, set into the open armhole, with a 2 cm double-turned hem.
Closure: Zip from the top of the collar down to the notch on the front, covered by a separate placket folded in half and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edges.
Pockets: Four patch pockets, two at the chest and two at the hips, each with a strip sewn along its sides and bottom and a lined flap topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, closed with one button.
Back: Centre back seam.
Waist: A casing stitched to the inside at the waist carries a cord that comes out through two eyelets on the front. The cord can be ready-made or made from the jacket fabric.
Finishing: Shoulder seams topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam; front facings caught in the 2 cm double-turned hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip set into the collar and front edge together with the facing, four flap pockets with strips and buttonholes, setting eyelets and a drawstring casing.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics with a water-repellent finish.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
- 2 eyelets
- Cord for the drawstring
- 4 buttons (pocket flaps)
Cutter's Must
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Trim strip – 1 piece
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper flap – 4 pieces
- Upper pocket – 2 pieces
- Upper pocket trim strip – 2 pieces
- Lower flap – 4 pieces
- Lower pocket – 2 pieces
- Lower pocket trim strip – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on the front. Press dart depths downwards. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press it to the left side.
- Press the bottom seam allowance of the pocket trim strip by 1 cm to the wrong side. Stitch the unpressed edge of the upper pocket trim strip to the pocket along the side and bottom edges, clipping the pocket at the corners. Fold the upper pocket seam allowance twice to the wrong side and topstitch. Place pockets on the front according to markings and topstitch. Fold flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the corner seam allowances of the flaps and turn right side out. Straighten seams and press. Topstitch along the flap 0.5 cm from the edge. Make buttonholes. Stitch flaps to the front, fold down and topstitch. Sew buttons on pockets according to buttonholes. Lower pockets are processed similarly.
- Punch eyelets according to markings.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the windbreaker. Press seams towards the back and overlock. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the stitching line.
- Set sleeves into the open armhole. Overlock the seam. Stitch the side seam and sleeve seam. Overlock the seam and press towards the back. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, first by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm.
- Fold the long seam allowances of the belt inwards and press. Place the belt on the windbreaker from the wrong side and topstitch 0.1 cm from the fold.
- Overlock the inner edges of the facings. Fold the seam allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Set the upper collar into the neckline. Press the seam allowance towards the collar. Insert the zipper. Please note: the zipper is inserted from the upper edge of the collar to the notch. Stitch the facing to the lower collar. Press the seam allowances towards the collar. Fold the front edge with the upper collar and the facing with the lower collar right sides together. Stitch around the front edge, simultaneously stitching around the collar. The lower edge of the facing reaches the lower fold line. Turn right side out and press. Fold the inner collar seam allowance inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar. Topstitch along the collar edge and along the zipper 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Topstitch the hem. The facing is located between the hem and the main piece. Press the bottom of the sleeve by 1 cm to the wrong side, fold by 2 cm and topstitch.
- Fold the trim strip in half lengthwise and stitch the short sides. Turn the trim strip right side out, press and topstitch along the two short sides and the fold 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the trim strip to the front, fold towards the center and topstitch.
- Insert the cord into the eyelets, passing it between the belt and the windbreaker. Tip: the cord can be either ready-made or processed from the windbreaker fabric.
