Stand Collar Belted Trench
A women's single-breasted, fully lined coat below the knee, with a high layered stand collar, yokes cut in one with the sleeves, vertical panel seams, a pleated peplum at the back waist and button-trimmed patch pockets. Self-fabric belt with a 5 cm buckle.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over dresses, skirts and trousers.
- For the office and city wear, belted or open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, close to the body through the panel seams, drawn in at the waist by the belt.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: High interfaced stand with an inner collar caught in its upper edge and a separate outer collar basted to its lower edge; buttons sewn through all layers at the collar ends.
Sleeves: Long, cut in one with the front and back yokes, with a seam along the top of the arm reinforced with 1 cm stay tape; raglan-type shoulder pads.
Front: Centre front and side front panels below a straight yoke seam; interfaced front facings, buttonholes on the right front.
Pockets: Large lined patch pockets at the hip, each with a 1 cm frame between its front and side sections trimmed with four small buttons; stitched along the front and lower edges, the side edge left open as the entry.
Back: Two-piece back yoke, centre back seam and panel seams; a waist seam joins the upper back to a darted lower back, with a lined peplum pleated towards the centre back caught in it.
Waist: Belt topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge, held by belt loops set into the side seams.
Lining: Full lining, including the peplum, attached to the facings and sleeve hems; lining hem turned up twice and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A three-part collar, sleeves cut in one with the yokes, a lined pleated peplum set into a back waist seam, framed patch pockets and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fine, soft wool suiting, such as fine cashmere.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, back neck facing, collar pieces, armhole and yoke corners)
- Stay tape, 1 cm wide
- Raglan-type blouse shoulder pads
- 7 buttons, 2.5–3.5 cm in diameter
- 8 buttons, 1–1.3 cm in diameter
- Buckle, 5 cm wide
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Middle Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower Back – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 9. Collar – 2 pieces
- 10. Outer Collar – 2 pieces
- 11. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- 12. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 13. Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- 14. Front Pocket – 2 pieces
- 15. Pocket Side – 2 pieces
- 16. Pocket Frame – 2 pieces
- 17. Peplum – 1 piece on fold
- 18. Belt Loop – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Middle Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower Back – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Peplum – 1 piece on fold
- 9. Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 2. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- 3. Collar – 1 piece
- 4. Stand Collar – 1 piece
- 5. Outer Collar – 1 piece
Attention: the front and back lining pieces are cut from the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing respectively. Note: the panel seams and side seams of the main fabric and lining may be overlocked from the hem up to the waist only.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing and all collar pieces. Fuse the armhole area of the Side Front. Apply 1 cm wide stay tape along the upper sleeve edge, from the neckline to the sleeve hem, on the front and back pieces. Fuse the corners at the armhole and neckline on the Front Yoke and Back Yoke.
- Stitch the Side Back pieces to the Middle Back pieces, then stitch the center back seam. Press the seams open. Stitch the Back Yoke pieces together and press the seam open. Clip the corner of the Back Yoke at the start of the armhole. Attach the Back Yoke to the back. Press the seam open. Stitch the lower armhole and sleeve cap sections on the back. Press the seam towards the sleeve.
- Place the Peplum and its lining right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Turn right side out and press. Understitch the seam allowances to the lining along the lower edge. From now on, handle the Peplum as a single layer. Lay the pleats along the upper edge of the Peplum, with the inner folds of the pleats facing the center back. Baste the pleats along the upper edge.
- Stitch the darts on the Lower Back pieces and press them towards the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam of the Lower Back. Press the seam open and overlock. Baste the Peplum to the Lower Back along the upper and side edges. Stitch the upper back to the Lower Back. Press the seam upwards.
- Stitch the Side Front pieces to the Center Front pieces. Press the panel seams open and overlock. Clip the corner of the Front Yoke at the start of the armhole. Attach the Front Yoke to the front. Press the seam open. Stitch the lower armhole and sleeve cap sections on the front. Press the seam towards the armhole.
- Pockets. Stitch the Pocket Frame to the Pocket Side. Press the seam towards the Pocket Side. Form a 1 cm wide frame, aligning the fold line of the frame with the center line marked on the pattern. Press the frame. Stitch along the seam joining the frame to the Pocket Side to secure it. Attach the Front Pocket to the other edge of the frame in the same way. Place the pocket and the Pocket Lining right sides together and stitch all edges except the side edge. Turn right side out and press. Sew on the small buttons; the button placement is marked on the Pocket Lining pattern. Topstitch the pockets to the fronts along the placement marks, stitching only the front and bottom edges of the pocket. The side edge is not stitched down.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams. Press the seams open. Stitch the underarm sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous seam. Press the seams open and overlock.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the Collar right side out and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together with the Collar sandwiched between them. Stitch only the upper edge of the Stand Collar. Turn right side out and press. Place the Outer Collar pieces right sides together and stitch. Turn right side out and press. Baste the Outer Collar to the Stand Collar along the lower edge. Clip the corner on the front neckline. Set the collar into the neckline, stitching the ends of the Stand Collar into the front neckline. Clip the seam at the curves and press towards the front and back.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing pieces. Press the seams open. Clip the corner on the neckline of the Center Front Facing.
- Place the Center Front Facing and the front right sides together and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Understitch the front-edge seam allowance onto the facing from the hem up to the yoke, 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower edge of the facing to the front exactly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm short of the inner edge of the facing. Trim the seam allowance at the lower front corner. Turn the front edge right side out and ease out the seams. Press the collar and front edges.
- Overlock one long edge of the Belt Loop strip. Fold the raw edge inwards and cover it with the overlocked edge. Topstitch with two parallel lines 0.1 cm from the edges. Cut the strip into individual belt loops. Stitch the belt loops into the side seams.
- Sew the lining pieces together in the same way as the main fabric pieces. Turn the lining hem allowance under twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the coat and press it up. Sew in the shoulder pads. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing, starting and ending the seam at half the width of the coat hem allowance. Clip the allowance of the facing's inner edge where the lining seam begins. Fold under the facing allowance from the hemline to the clip and slipstitch it in place. Overlock the lining seam and press it towards the lining.
- Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Press the seam towards the lining.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front. Sew the buttons on the collar through all layers at the marked positions.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long edge and one short end. Turn right side out, fold in the allowances of the open end and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge all around the belt. Thread on the buckle and secure it.
