Short Coat with Rounded Collar

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – QTY 2
2. BACK PANEL side – QTY 2
3. BACK PANEL yoke – QTY 1
4. FRONT PANEL side – QTY 2
5. FRONT PANEL center – QTY 2
6. FRONT PANEL yoke – QTY 2
7. SLEEVE – QTY 2
8. Stand – QTY 2
9. COLLAR – QTY 2
10. Front FACING – QTY 2
11. Welt pocket flap – QTY 4
12. Back neckline FACING – QTY 1
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – QTY 2
2. BACK PANEL side – QTY 2
3. BACK PANEL yoke – QTY 1
4. FRONT PANEL side – QTY 2
5. FRONT PANEL center – QTY 2
6. FRONT PANEL yoke – QTY 2
7. SLEEVE – QTY 2
8. Pocket bag – QTY 4

ATTENTION: The FRONT PANEL yoke, FRONT PANEL center, and BACK PANEL yoke LINING pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, deducting the width of the front FACINGS and the back neckline FACING, respectively.

• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. Stand – QTY 1
2. COLLAR – QTY 1
3. Front FACING – QTY 2
4. Welt pocket flap – QTY 2
5. Back neckline FACING – QTY 1

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the corresponding pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Fold the welt pocket flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the pocket opening edge and short sides. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, clip curves, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
3. Stitch the FRONT PANEL princess seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
4. Reinforce the pocket area on the FRONT PANEL with a GRAIN LINE strip and mark the attachment lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Attach the welt pocket flap to the FRONT PANEL, straighten. Attach one pocket bag to the FRONT PANEL, the other to the welt pocket flap in the attachment seam. Turn pocket bags to the wrong side. Secure pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Even, trim, stitch, and overcast the pocket bag. Topstitch the ends of the welt pocket flap to the FRONT PANEL.
5. Along the upper edge of the FRONT PANEL in the area of the princess seam, sew a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the FRONT PANEL yoke to the FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
6. Fold the front FACING with the FRONT PANEL right sides together and stitch the front edge and neckline up to the NOTCH. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corner, clip at the NOTCH. Turn the front FACING to the right side, straighten, and press.
7. Stitch the center back seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the BACK PANEL princess seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Attach the BACK PANEL yoke to the BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
8. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
9. Attach the stands to the COLLARS, clip and press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Fold the COLLARS right sides together and stitch the outer edge and stand up to the NOTCH. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves and at the NOTCH, trim corners. Turn the COLLAR right side out, straighten, and press. Secure the upper and lower COLLARS along the stand attachment seam.
10. Attach the back neckline FACING to the front FACINGS, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
11. Set the lower COLLAR into the coat's neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the front FACINGS and back neckline FACING, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, press open.
12. Fold and secure pleats along the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Stitch the SLEEVE seam.
13. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads.
14. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch seams similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the right SLEEVE seam. Fold the LINING with the coat right sides together and attach to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and back neckline FACING. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR attachment seams close to the seams. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the hem of the garment and SLEEVES with the LINING. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the technological opening closed. Topstitch along the front edge and COLLAR 0.7 cm from the edge.
15. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, and correspondingly sew buttons on the left FRONT PANEL. Overcast a buttonhole and sew a button on the COLLAR.