Coat with Apache Collar

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 1 QTY on fold
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
4. Underlap – 2 QTY
5. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
6. Belt – 1 QTY (width in cut 12 cm, length 150 – 170 cm)
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 1 QTY on fold
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. SLEEVE – 2 QTY

ATTENTION: BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces from LINING fabric are cut without considering the back neckline FACING and underlap, respectively.

FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: underlap, back neckline FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the underlap and back neckline FACING.
2. Mark, fold, and stitch pleats on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL according to markings. Press pleat depths towards the center of the pieces.
3. Clip the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCE of the FRONT PANEL at the corner. Stitch shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
4. Stitch the center seam of the COLLAR on the FRONT PANEL pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the lower COLLAR to the back neckline. Clip and press the attachment seam open.
5. Clip the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCE of the underlap at the corner. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and underlap, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the center seam of the COLLAR on the underlap pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the upper COLLAR to the FACING neckline. Press the attachment seam open.
6. Place the underlap on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge, lapel, and COLLAR edge. Stitch the lower edges of the underlaps to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the underlap. Trim the seams of the lower front corners, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front, lapel, and COLLAR. Overlock the bottom edge and press to the wrong side.
7. Stitch side seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and overlock.
8. Stitch the SLEEVE seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Press up the SLEEVE hem.
9. Set in SLEEVES into armholes according to NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch and overlock seams and set in SLEEVES, similar to the main fabric pieces.
11. Turn up the bottom edge SEAM ALLOWANCE of the LINING twice and topstitch. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the underlaps and back neckline FACING. Start and end the stitching at half the width of the main garment's bottom hem. Secure the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the seams.
12. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVES. Turn the coat right side out. Hem the bottom of the coat with blind stitches.
13. On the right FRONT PANEL, make a buttonhole; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on a button.
14. Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.