Short Sleeve Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• COLLAR – 2 QTY
• BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
• FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
• CUFF – 2 QTY
• Belt – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• Pocket Bag – 4 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
• BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
• COLLAR – 1 QTY

ATTENTION: The LINING FRONT PANELS and BACK PANELS are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the FRONT FACINGS and BACK NECK FACING, respectively.

Note: It is permissible to overlock the princess seams and side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the main fabric and LINING from the bottom to the waist.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FRONT FACING, BACK NECK FACING, and lower COLLAR. Fuse the pocket placement area on the center and SIDE PANELS of the FRONT PANEL, and the armhole on the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL. Apply GRAIN LINE tape 1 cm wide from the neckline to the bottom of the SLEEVE on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL pieces. Fuse the upper corner at the armhole on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL pieces. Press the CUFFS in half lengthwise. Fuse half of the CUFF. The FUSIBLE INTERFACING should extend 1-2 cm beyond the fold line.
2. Stitch the BACK SIDE PANELS to the center BACK PANELS. Press seams open and overlock. Clip the corner on the BACK PANEL at the start of the armhole. Stitch the lower armhole and SLEEVE cap sections on the BACK PANEL. Press the seam towards the SLEEVE. Stitch the center BACK PANEL seam. Press seam open and overlock.
3. Stitch pocket bags to the integrated pocket stays. Press seams towards the pocket bag. Stitch the FRONT SIDE PANELS to the center FRONT PANELS, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. On the FRONT SIDE PANEL, clip the seams at the pocket opening. Press the pocket stays towards the center of the FRONT PANEL, press the princess seam open and overlock. Clip the corner on the FRONT PANEL at the start of the armhole. Stitch the lower armhole and SLEEVE cap sections on the FRONT PANEL. Press the seam towards the armhole.
4. Stitch the upper edges of the SLEEVES. Press seams open. Stitch the lower edges of the SLEEVES and side edges with a single seam. Press seams open and overlock. Fold the CUFFS into a loop right sides together and stitch. Press seam open. Turn the CUFFS right side out, fold in half, and press. Attach the CUFFS to the SLEEVES with the non-fused side. Press seam open.
5. Fold the COLLAR pieces right sides together. Stitch the right end of the COLLAR from the NOTCH (marked 'o') to the upper edge. Trim the seam. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the mark near the beginning of the seam. Turn the COLLAR right side out and press. Attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Press seam open.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK NECK FACING and FRONT FACING. Press seams open.
7. Fold the right FRONT FACING with the FRONT PANEL right sides together and stitch the right front edge and lapel break. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge from the bottom to the NOTCH onto the FRONT FACING. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower edge of the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the FRONT FACING. Trim the seam of the lower front corner. Slash the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the neckline near the lapel break mark. Turn the front edge right side out, smooth the seams. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and FRONT FACING. Press seam open.
8. Fold the left FRONT FACING with the FRONT PANEL right sides together and stitch the left front edge and COLLAR. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge from the bottom to the NOTCH onto the FRONT FACING. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower edge of the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the FRONT FACING. Trim the seam of the lower front corner. Press the COLLAR and front edges. Stitch a reinforcing seam along the COLLAR attachment seam to the neckline. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge of the front edge, lapel, and COLLAR.
9. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Turn under the lower LINING SEAM ALLOWANCE twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch.
10. Overlock and press up the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the garment. Attach shoulder pads. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the FRONT FACINGS and BACK NECK FACING. Start and end the stitching halfway across the hem allowance of the main garment. Slash the SEAM ALLOWANCE on the inner edge of the FRONT FACING at the start of the LINING attachment. Fold the FRONT FACING allowance from the hemline to the slash inwards and hand stitch with blind stitches. Overlock the LINING attachment seam and press towards the LINING.
11. Stitch the LINING to the CUFFS. Press the seam towards the CUFF. Stitch a reinforcing seam along the CUFF attachment seam.
12. On the right FRONT PANEL and COLLAR, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.
13. Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.