CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Central upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- Side upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- Side upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Side lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Central FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Collar Stand – QTY 2
- Front Facing – QTY 2
- Flap – QTY 4
- CUFF – QTY 2
- Strap – QTY 2
- Back Neck FACING – QTY 1
- Shoulder Tab – QTY 2
- Belt Loop - QTY 1
- Decorative Loop - QTY 3
- From LINING fabric:
- Upper BACK PANEL LINING – QTY 2
- Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- FRONT PANEL LINING – QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Pocket Bag – QTY 4
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Central FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Collar Stand – QTY 1
- Front Facing – QTY 2
- Flap – QTY 2
- CUFF – QTY 2
- Strap – QTY 2
- Back Neck FACING – QTY 1
- Shoulder Tab – QTY 2
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to corresponding pieces.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn right side out, press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge, make a buttonhole. Stitch pocket bag to the flap.
- Stitch side upper and side lower FRONT PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Place the pocket bag onto the right side of the side FRONT PANEL, and the pocket bag with the attached flap onto the central FRONT PANEL, right side down, aligning with NOTCHES. Stitch the pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE. Fold back the side FRONT PANEL seam and topstitch onto the pocket bag.
- Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and the pocket bag. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press the princess seam SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center, pressing the pocket. Topstitch along the princess seam to the waist, 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the center back seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower BACK PANEL to the upper part, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Stitch the back neck FACING to the front facings, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the coat neckline, and the inner collar stand to the neckline of the front facings and FACING. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, press open. Place front facings with the garment and stitch the front edge and collar stand in one seam. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the garment right side out, press.
- Fold straps in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and shaped sides. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the strap right side out, press. Topstitch 0.7 cm along the edge, make a buttonhole.
- Stitch the front SLEEVE seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Press the CUFF in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the CUFF and stitch the outer side to the lower SLEEVE edge, press SEAM ALLOWANCES onto the CUFF and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the elbow SLEEVE seam, simultaneously stitching the CUFF and inserting the strap.
- Set in SLEEVES into armholes, aligning with NOTCHES.
- Place shoulder tab right sides together and stitch along the long and shaped sides, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn right side out, press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge, make a buttonhole. Finish the raw edge.
- Fold the belt loop piece lengthwise into three layers and topstitch with a coverstitch. Cut the belt loop into two pieces, finish the ends. TIP: If a coverstitch is not possible, the belt loop from coat fabric is finished with LINING. The finished width of the belt loop is 1 cm.
- Stitch the belt loop and shoulder tab to the shoulder according to the technical drawing.
- Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch seams and darts, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam. Place LINING with the coat right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the front facings and back neck FACING. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the collar stand attachment seams and secure close to the seams. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the hem of the garment with LINING. Stitch LINING SLEEVES to the inner CUFF. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the technological opening closed.
- Fold the decorative loop piece lengthwise into three layers and topstitch with a coverstitch. Try on the loop to the garment, trim excess, finish the ends. Topstitch the loop onto the FRONT PANEL. TIP: If a coverstitch is not possible, the loop from coat fabric is finished with LINING. The finished width of the loop is 1 cm.
- On the collar stand, make a buttonhole, and sew a button accordingly. Sew buttons according to the other buttonholes.
