Double-breasted Notched Lapel Short Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • FACING – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
  • Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
  • Upper COLLAR - 1 QTY
  • Pocket – 2 QTY
  • Flap – 4 QTY
  • Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
  • BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
  • Pocket – 2 QTY
  • Flap – 2 QTY

ATTENTION: The center BACK PANEL and center FRONT PANEL pieces are cut by subtracting the width of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and FACING respectively.

• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FACING – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
  • Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
  • Flap – 2 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the corresponding pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING, as well as the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the garment hem and SLEEVE hem.
2. Place the flap piece with the LINING right sides together and stitch along the side and shaped edges. Trim the corner SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip at curves. Turn the flap right side out, smooth, and press. Overcast the raw edge of the flap.
3. Place the pocket piece with the LINING right sides together and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning. Trim the corner SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the pocket right side out, smooth, and press. Sew up the technical opening.
4. Place the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, clip at the NOTCH. Turn the COLLAR right side out, smooth, and press.
5. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, face down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is performed from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower corners of the edge, clip at the NOTCH. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the edge stitching: in the fastener area – onto the FACING, in the lapel area – onto the FRONT PANEL edge. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges right side out, smooth the seams.
6. Stitch and press open the center BACK PANEL seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
7. Mark the pocket placement. Topstitch the pocket according to the marking. Measure 1.5 cm down from the upper edge of the pocket and mark the flap placement. Place the flap on the marking and stitch. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the stitching seam.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the coat neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the BACK PANEL FACING and FACING.
9. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
10. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
11. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
12. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the BACK PANEL neckline FACING. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR insertion seams and secure close to the seams.
13. Stitch the LINING to the hem of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
14. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast the buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the buttons. Sew decorative buttons on the right FRONT PANEL and on the SLEEVE vents. Overcast the inner buttonhole on the left FRONT PANEL at the waist. Accordingly, sew a button on the inside of the right FRONT PANEL.