Zipper Front Hoodie

Name: Zipper Front Hoodie
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5918
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5918

A women's hip-length zip-up hoodie in fleece or sweatshirt knit, with a two-piece drawstring hood, a full-length front zip and two patch pockets with slanted openings that meet at the zip like a split kangaroo pocket. The hood centre seam and the hood-to-neckline seam are covered with bias binding. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fleece or soft, thick knit such as sweatshirt fleece (French terry).

Tech. Description

Zipper Front Hoodie

When To Wear

Over T-shirts for walks, travel and sport warm-ups.
As a light outer layer in spring and autumn, or as home wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, relaxed fit, hip length.

Collar: Hood made of two pieces joined by a centre seam, which is covered on the inside by a folded strip of bias binding topstitched to the hood. The front edge is turned in as a casing for a drawstring that exits through two interfaced buttonholes.

Closure: Separating zip from the hem up to the neckline, backed by centre front facings that run up into the hood and are tacked to the shoulder seams.

Pockets: A patch pocket on each front with a slanted, turned and topstitched opening; the two pockets sit side by side at the zip.

Sleeves: Long, set in flat before the side and sleeve seams are closed in one line; hems turned up and topstitched.

Back: Plain one-piece back; the back neck seam is covered with bias binding that runs 1.5–2 cm onto the fronts.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch and overlocked; body and sleeve hems topstitched with a twin needle.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A full-length zip with facings in a thick knit, a hood set together with facings and bias binding, and drawstring buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Fleece or soft, thick knit such as sweatshirt fleece (French terry).

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (drawstring buttonhole areas on the hood)
Zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
Cord for the hood drawstring (approximate length marked on the hood pattern piece)
Cord ends
Bias binding, 4 cm wide

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Front – 2 pieces
Back – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
Hood – 2 pieces
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing: small patches for the drawstring buttonholes on the Hood.

Sewing Instructions

Tip: Cut pieces made from knit fabrics should be sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.

Reinforce the areas for buttonholes on the hood with fusible interfacing.
Serge the pocket opening edge, fold it inwards and topstitch. Serge and fold the top, bottom, and side seam allowances of the pockets to the wrong side and press. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch the pocket.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the hoodie. Press the seams towards the back and serge.
Insert the zipper from the top down to the notch for the zipper.
Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the hood pieces right sides together. Lay the bias binding onto the hood edge and align the edges. Stitch the hood pieces together with the bias binding. Fold back the bias binding and topstitch it onto the hood, thereby covering the seam of the hood pieces. Make the buttonholes for the drawstring. Serge the outer edge of the hood, fold under, and topstitch to the wrong side. Cut open the buttonholes and thread the cord through the casing.
Serge the outer and upper edges of the Center Front Facing.
Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the hoodie and hood pieces right sides together. Lay the Center Front Facing onto the hood, right side down. Lay the bias binding onto the back hood edge (the binding should extend onto the front by 1.5 – 2 cm) and align the edges. Stitch the hood, hoodie, and facing pieces together with the bias binding. Fold back the bias binding and topstitch it onto the hoodie, thereby covering the hood insertion seam.
Secure the upper edge of the Center Front Facing along the shoulder seam.
Set the sleeves into the open armholes. Serge the seam. Stitch the side seam and the sleeve seam. Serge the seam and press towards the back.
Serge the bottom edge of the garment.
Fold the hem allowance inwards and topstitch.
Serge the sleeve hem, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.