Balloon Dress with Polo Collar and Gathered Hem

Name: Balloon Dress with Polo Collar and Gathered Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5919
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5919

A women's above-knee dress in stretch denim with a shirt collar on a stand and a four-button half placket. Stitched-down pleats on either side of the placket release fullness below the bust, and an elasticated hem band draws the lower edge in to a balloon shape. Short puffed sleeves with elasticated cuffs. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: cotton denim with added elastane.

Tech. Description

Balloon Dress with Polo Collar and Gathered Hem

When To Wear

Everyday wear in spring and summer, with trainers or sandals.
Over a long-sleeved T-shirt and with tights in early autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Loose from the bust down, drawn in at the hem by an elasticated band.

Length: Above the knee.

Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends set on a separate stand; the collar and one stand layer are interfaced, the outer stand is topstitched over the neckline seam.

Closure: Half placket at the centre front with 4 buttons; the interfaced placket ends in a pointed tip, topstitched along its long edges and stitched down to the front at the end.

Front: Cut on the fold, shaped with bust darts pressed downwards. On each side of the placket a pleat is stitched from the shoulder down to a marked line and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam, then released.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap and finished with a cuff band carrying elastic.

Back: Centre back seam, otherwise plain.

Waist: No waist seam; the hem is finished with a separate band (lower placket) made into a ring and threaded with elastic.

Finishing: Cuff and hem bands topstitched over the attaching seams; seams overlocked.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A half placket cut into the front with a pointed end, a collar on a two-piece stand, stitched pleats, gathered sleeve caps and elastic casings.

Fabric Recommendations

Cotton denim with added elastane.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (placket, collar, stand)
4 buttons
Elastic, 3 cm wide (cuffs and hem band)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Front – 1 piece on fold
Back – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Placket – 4 pieces
Lower Placket – 1 piece
Collar – 2 pieces
Stand Collar – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Placket – 2 pieces
Stand Collar – 1 piece
Collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse the fusible interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
On the Front, mark and stitch the darts. Press the bust darts downwards. Mark and fold the inverted pleat. Stitch the pleat, ending the seam at the marked line. Topstitch the pleat seam allowances from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press it to the left side.
Fold the Placket pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch: the left placket along the inner edge, the right placket along the inner edge, also stitching the corner. On the right placket, clip the seam allowance at the end of the corner stitching. Turn the plackets right side out and press. On the Front, clip the placket opening into the corners exactly along the markings, stopping 1 mm before the seam line. Place the outer layer of each placket against the right side of the Front and stitch. Press the seam towards the placket. Turn the plackets to the right side. Fold under the raw edge of the inner layer and baste. Turn the end of the left placket to the wrong side together with the triangle; leave the end of the right placket on the right side. Topstitch along the long edges of the placket, catching the inner edge at the same time. From the wrong side, secure the triangle with the end of the left placket. Topstitch the end of the right placket to the Front.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press the seams towards the back and overlock.
Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim the corners and turn the collar right side out. Stitch the Stand Collar pieces together, sandwiching the collar between them and starting and ending the stitching precisely at the stand attachment line. Turn to the right side, press the finished collar. Stitch the inner stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the outer stand and topstitch it over the neckline seam.
Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the sleeve seams. Overlock the seam and press. Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Overlock the seam and press it towards the bodice. Stitch each Cuff into a ring, leaving a small opening. Stitch the outer half of the cuff to the sleeve, fold under the raw edge of the inner half and topstitch it over the seam. Insert the elastic through the opening.
Stitch the Lower Placket into a ring, leaving an opening. Stitch its outer half to the hem of the dress, fold under the raw edge of the inner half and topstitch it over the seam. Insert the elastic through the opening.
Make the buttonholes on the placket and sew on the buttons.