Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1
3. Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
4. Side FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
5. Lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 1 on fold
6. SLEEVE – QTY 2
• From contrasting fabric:
1. BACK PANEL insert – QTY 1
2. FRONT PANEL insert – QTY 1
3. FRONT PANEL TRIM STRIP – QTY 2
4. CUFF – QTY 2
5. Lower BACK PANEL TRIM STRIP_1 – QTY 1
6. Lower BACK PANEL TRIM STRIP_2 – QTY 1
7. Lower FRONT PANEL TRIM STRIP_1 – QTY 1
8. Lower FRONT PANEL TRIM STRIP_2 – QTY 1

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics should be stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the center seam of the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left and serge.
2. Stitch shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
3. Press the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the binding right sides together with the neckline of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold.
4. On the center FRONT PANEL pieces, create and secure the pleats. Attach the FRONT PANEL TRIM STRIP to the center FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the TRIM STRIP, and serge. Attach the side FRONT PANEL to the TRIM STRIP, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the TRIM STRIP, and serge.
5. Overlap the right FRONT PANEL over the left, secure at the lower edge, and then treat as one piece.
6. Attach the BACK PANEL insert to the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge. Attach the lower BACK PANEL to the insert, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the insert and serge.
7. Attach TRIM STRIP_1 to the lower BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge. Attach TRIM STRIP_2 to TRIM STRIP_1, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
8. Attach the FRONT PANEL insert to the upper FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge. Create pleats on the lower FRONT PANEL according to markings, attach the lower part to the insert, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the insert and serge.
9. Attach TRIM STRIP_1 to the lower FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge. Attach TRIM STRIP_2 to TRIM STRIP_1, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
10. Stitch the right side seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the left side seam on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, stitch the left side seam, inserting the ZIPPER, and press open.
11. Stitch the SLEEVE seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge. Along the lower edge of the SLEEVE, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the CUFF length. Stitch the CUFF into a loop, press in half lengthwise right side out, and attach to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
12. Along the SLEEVE cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning the NOTCHES. Serge and press the seams.
13. Serge the hem allowance of the garment, fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.