CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 2. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- 3. Inner BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- 4. Upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 5. Inner FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
- 6. Lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
- 7. FRONT SKIRT HALF — QTY 1
- 8. Front neckline FACING – QTY 1
- 9. Back neckline FACING – QTY 1
- 10. SLEEVE – QTY 2
- 11. Waistband — QTY 2
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also sew pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the back and front neckline FACINGS. Serge the outer edge of the FACINGS.
- Process the upper FRONT PANEL. Stitch the bust dart. Trim the dart depth, serge, and press. Serge the bias edge, fold under, and topstitch. Create pleats along the marked lines of the upper edge. Along the lower edge, from the edge to the 1st NOTCH, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. The gathering amount is indicated on the pattern. Place the right FRONT PANEL over the left, then place the neckline FACING face down on top, aligning the NOTCHES on the FACING and the bias edge of the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the neckline of the FRONT PANEL, stopping 7 cm before the shoulder seam. Secure the left and right FRONT PANELS together along the lower edge.
- Stitch the center back seam. Serge and press the seam open.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the upper BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Serge and press the seams towards the BACK PANEL.
- Stitch the FACING pieces together. Serge and press the seams. Stitch the back neckline and the unstitched sections of the front neckline. Turn the FACING to the wrong side, press, and topstitch the seam allowance to the FACING.
- On the FRONT SKIRT HALF, serge, fold under, and topstitch the vertical edge. Serge the lower edge with a narrow rolled hem. Secure the FRONT SKIRT HALF and the lower FRONT PANEL along the upper edge.
- Fold the waistband pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along 3 sides. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
- Place the lower FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL right sides together. Insert the waistband pieces into the side seam, 1 cm from the upper edge, and stitch. Serge and press the seam towards the FRONT PANEL.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Serge and press the seams towards the BACK PANEL.
- Place the lower part over the inner BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL and secure the pieces along the upper seam. Stitch the BODICE and skirt pieces. Press the seam allowances down and serge.
- Along the lower edge of the SLEEVE, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Finish the edge with BIAS BINDING. Stitch the SLEEVE seams. Serge and press the seams.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning the NOTCHES. Serge and press the seams.
- Serge the lower edges of the garment with a narrow rolled hem, slightly stretching the seam.
