Double-Breasted Jacket with Ruffled Hem
A short, fitted women's jacket with notched lapels, a double-breasted front with six visible buttons and a gathered flounce sewn to the lower edge. The long set-in sleeves end in gathered flounce cuffs.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over blouses and fine knitwear.
- With straight skirts or trousers for the office or an evening out.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts on the front and back; the body ends above the hip, with the flounce below it.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, the under collar set into the neckline and the upper collar into the facing.
Front: Double-breasted, three pairs of buttons; faced front edges, the seam allowance stitched 0.2 cm from the seam to the facing along the closure and to the front along the lapels.
Back: Centre back seam and darts pressed towards the centre.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves; the cuff is a flounce gathered onto the sleeve edge, its lower edge overlocked, turned and topstitched.
Finishing: Two-piece flounce joined at the centre back, gathered along the whole lower edge of the jacket, with its front and lower edges turned and topstitched. Seams overlocked and pressed open; shoulder pads.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar set between jacket and facing, a double-breasted front and even gathering of the hem and cuff flounces.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper collar, back neck facing)
- 7 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Ruche – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Upper Collar and Back Neckline Facing.
- Mark the darts on the Front and Back. Stitch the darts; press the back darts towards the centre back and the front darts towards the centre front.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the collar right side out. Ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Overlock the free edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch with the Front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Trim the seam allowances at the upper corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: below the lapels, to the facing; along the lapels, to the Front. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Overlock the centre back edges, stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
- Overlock the shoulder and side edges, stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Overlock the free edge of the Back Neckline Facing. Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Overlock the lower edge of the Cuff, turn it under and topstitch. Along the upper edge of the cuff, sew a row of long, loose stitches 0.5 cm from the edge. Pull up the gathers to match the lower edge of the Sleeve, spreading them evenly along the whole length. Stitch the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Overlock the seam and press it towards the sleeve.
- Overlock the sleeve seam edges, stitch the sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Overlock the armhole seam. Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Join the two Ruche pieces with the centre back seam and press it open. Overlock the lower and front edges of the ruche, turn them under and topstitch. Along the upper edge of the ruche, sew a row of long, loose stitches 0.5 cm from the edge. Pull up the gathers to match the lower edge of the back and fronts, spreading them evenly along the whole length. Stitch the ruche to the lower edge of the jacket, matching the centre back seams. Stitch the Center Front Facing to the lower edge of the jacket. Overlock the seam and topstitch it to the jacket.
- Work a buttonhole on the right front and sew a button on the left front.
