Jacket with Front Waist Tucks & Back Buckled Tabs

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Right FRONT PANEL center part – QTY 1
• 2. Left FRONT PANEL center part – QTY 1
• 3. FRONT PANEL Yoke – QTY 2
• 4. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
• 5. BACK PANEL lower part – QTY 2
• 6. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
• 7. BACK PANEL upper part – QTY 2
• 8. BACK PANEL Yoke – QTY 2
• 9. Stand – QTY 2
• 10. Back neckline FACING – QTY 2
• 11. Front facing – QTY 2
• 12. SLEEVE upper part – QTY 2
• 13. SLEEVE lower part – QTY 2
• 14. Flap – QTY 4
• 15. Strap 1 – QTY 2
• 16. Strap 2 – QTY 2
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. FRONT PANEL center part – QTY 2
• 2. FRONT PANEL Yoke – QTY 2
• 3. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
• 4. BACK PANEL middle part – QTY 2
• 5. BACK PANEL Yoke – QTY 2
• 6. SLEEVE upper part – QTY 2
• 7. SLEEVE lower part – QTY 2
• 8. Pocket LINING – QTY 4
• 9. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neckline FACING, right FRONT PANEL center part, left FRONT PANEL center part, upper COLLAR, flap, GRAIN LINE stay.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facing, back neckline FACING, right FRONT PANEL center part, left FRONT PANEL center part, upper COLLAR, and flap.
2. On the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL, sew decorative horizontal stitches (according to the technical drawing). Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
3. Attach the upper BACK PANEL to the lower BACK PANEL. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
4. Stitch and press open the princess seam on the BACK PANEL. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the seam.
5. Attach the yoke to the BACK PANEL. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
6. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
7. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim flap corner SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn right side out. Place stand pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seams at corners, shape, turn right side out, and press the COLLAR.
8. Press the integrated placket to the wrong side. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the placket. Attach the ZIPPER and press the left front edge of the FRONT PANEL (note: on the right FRONT PANEL, the ZIPPER is covered by the integrated placket, and on the left FRONT PANEL, the ZIPPER runs along the edge of the front).
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side upwards. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the FRONT PANEL precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the lower corners of the front. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
10. Place strap pieces 1 and 2 right sides together and stitch around. Trim seams at corners, shape, turn right side out, and press the straps. Place the straps at the NOTCHES on the BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL and stitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
11. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
12. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and the front facing. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back FACING and front facing. Topstitch along the front edge: on the right FRONT PANEL 0.5 cm from the ZIPPER attachment seam, on the left FRONT PANEL 3.5 cm from the front edge.
13. Cut the side welt pocket FACINGS and fuse the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE stay. Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket FACING parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket FACINGS. Attach the pocket LINING to the flap. Attach the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket FACING. Attach the lower pocket LINING to the seam of the lower FACING attachment, trim and stitch the pocket LINING.
14. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
15. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes at the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
16. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
17. Attach the LINING to the front.